2010 Backpacking to Tibet (30 days) 20 Mar to 18 April 2010 (Part 3 of 4)


L-R: Bernard Lee, Chan Meng Fai, Choo Chiew Chin, Sharon Tan, Chew Leng Soon, Chew Siang Peng, Ching Neng Bin at Tiger Leaping Gorge, China

Part 3: Lijiang > Xiatio > Tiger Leaping Gorge > Lijiang > Dali > Kunming > Chengdu

Day 15 (03.04.2010) Lijiang to Xiatio to Naxi Family Guesthouse (Tiger Leaping Gorge Trek)

From Lijiang, getting to the Tiger Leaping Gorge, we took the 10am bus (26Y) bound for Shangrila at the long distance bus station to Xiatio which was a 2 hours journey from Lijiang. Had our lunch at Xiatio, a small town, and was from here the Tiger Leaping Gorge to Naxi Guesthouse trek starts.

To get to the high trek, we walked across the Xiatio bridge first and then took a left fork, went through the school yard and then up the tractor road. Continued until the track ends and then followed the yellow arrow to the right on a dirt trek all the way up. It was a 8km gentle trek and took 2.5 hours to reach the Naxi Family Guesthouse where we stayed for the night.

Tiger Leaping Gorge is a scenic canyon on the Jinsha River, a primary tributary of the upper Yangtze River. It is located 60km north of Lijiang City. It is part of the Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected Areas World Heritage Site.

The gorge is one of the deepest in the world, measures 16km long and is 5,600m from the waters of Jinsha River to the snow capped mountaintops of Haba Mountain to the west and Yulong Mountain or Jade Dragon Snow Mountain to the east. Its in a series of rapids under steep 2000m cliffs. Legend says that in order to escape from a hunter, a tiger jumped across the river at the narrowest point (still 25m wide), hence the name.

Sleeping: Naxi Family Guesthouse - 120Y a room for 3pax


The Tiger Leaping Gorge trekking map.


Had our lunch at Xiatio, a small town, and was from here the Tiger Leaping Gorge to Naxi Guesthouse trek starts.


Tiger Leaping Gorge is a scenic canyon on the Jinsha River, a primary tributary of the upper Yangtze River.


The tractor road on the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


The Tiger Leaping Gorge trek was peaceful and farm like, a few cows grazing on as we walked along the path.


A farmer on the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Stunning view of the Jinsha River, a primary tributary of the upper Yangtze River along the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Heading towards the upper trek, we could see a solid wall of soaring mountains rising abruptly far ahead. Here we were facing these stunning mountain ranges which would be our views throughout the duration of the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


The Jinsha River runs between two mountains along the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek - Haba Mt. and Jade Dragon Snow Mt.


Tiger Leaping Gorge trek between two mountains - Haba Snow Mountain and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.


Tiger Leaping Gorge trek between two mountains - Haba Snow Mountain and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.


Tiger Leaping Gorge trek between two mountains - Haba Snow Mountain and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.


Baishui Terrace is the birthplace of the Naxi ethnic minority Dongba Culture. Amid the mountains is the stretch of crystal terrace. Spring water flows down from the mountain, leaving crystallized sodium carbonate along its slopes.


Sleeping: Naxi Family Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.- 120Y a room for 3pax.


Enjoying cold beer at Naxi Family Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Naxi Family Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Chew Leng Soon with the Naxi Family Guesthouse staffs. This is an incredibly friendly, well-run place (with organic veggies and wines), set around a pleasant courtyard; as an overnight stop along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Naxi Family Guesthouse with an incredibly friendly staff, well-run place (with organic veggies and wines), set around a pleasant courtyard; as an overnight stop along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.

Trekking horses for rent at Naxi Family Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


The lady owner of Naxi Family Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


The stunning view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from Naxi Family Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Cindy Chong and See Beow Aun at Naxi Family Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


The stunning sunset view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from Naxi Family Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


The stunning sunset view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from Naxi Family Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Dinner at Naxi Family Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.

Day 16 (04.04.2010) Naxi Family Guesthouse to Half Way Guesthouse (Tiger Leaping Gorge Trek)

As for today, the 5 hour trek to Half Way House is much longer and steeper. We resumed our hiking amidst fallen clouds hidden behind the imposing Jade Dragon Snow Mountains, firstly up the infamous 28 bends and secondly on the highest trek at 2,670m. We started trekking at 8.30am after breakfast and arrived at Tea-Horse Guesthouse for tea at 10.30am. Continued at 11am until we arrived at Half Way Guesthouse at 2pm for lunch. All in all we trekked for 5 hours. Cindy and Siang Peng hired a horse each in view of the long journey.

Sleeping: Half Way Guesthouse - 100Y a room for 2pax


Our lovely cowgirl, Cindy Chong on the trek to Half Way Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Bernard Lee and Chew Leng Soon saying goodbye to Naxi Family Guesthouse staff along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Malayian cowboy and cowgirl on the trek to Half Way Guesthouse along Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Up the infamous 28 bends on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Stunning view of Jinsha River from the infamous 28 bends on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek. We zig-zagged through the 28 bends and in no way did we feel this was hard.


The long and winding Tiger Leaping Gorge trek. Having no crowds on the trail in China seemed hard to believe.


Stunning view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Stunning view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.

Sharon Tan, Choo Chiew Chin and Ching Neng Bin standing at the highest point of 2,670m on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Stunning view of Jinsha River and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Stunning view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


We do struggled abit until we reached the Tea Horse Guest House for a quick tea break on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Tea Horse Guest House for a quick tea break on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Tea Horse Guest House for a quick tea break on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Tea Horse Guest House for a quick tea break on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Continued at 11am from Tea Horse Guest House until we arrived at Half Way Guesthouse at 2pm for lunch and another night.


Piglet at a farm house on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Farmers and their children on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Ching Neng Bin felt like we had come a long way to trek to Halfway Guesthouse for another night.


Chew Siang Peng and his horse on the trek to Halfway Guesthouse for a night.


It was natural for us to stop for a view. The wildflowers, the clear sky and the extravagant mountains was a far cry from what we had imagined.


The track ran through a thin ledge between the mountain wall on the left and the gorge below us. With just several kilometers to go, we picked up the pace and avoided the slippery rocks.


L-R: Lim Kee Moon, Bernard Lee, Chan Meng Fai, Chew Siang Peng, Choo Chiew Chin, Sharon Tan, Chew Leng Soon, Ching Neng Bin at Tiger Leaping Gorge, China


The track ran through a thin ledge between the mountain wall on the left and the gorge below us. With just several kilometers to go, we picked up the pace and avoided the slippery rocks.

At every turn, we thought we’ll be inching closer to our guest house but there were no signs or clues. Finally, during the last bit, we saw a chalk-written sign on the rocks stating we are 1km away from the guest house.


Halfway Guest House as you imagine from its name, it seems the middle point of Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Halfway Guest House as you imagine from its name, it seems the middle point of Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


There are 40 rooms in Halfway Guest House and furnished with 24 rooms with hot water. The dining is great and affordable. The boss of the hostel is able to speak different kinds of language and may give some advice to you if you request.


Ching Neng Bin at his Halfway Guest House room to get “best bathroom views” of the mountains.


Under the evening sky, we could view the Jade Dragon Snow mountain at the open courtyard of the Halfway Guesthouse. It was stunningly beautiful.


Hiking 7-8 hours along the upper section of Tiger Leaping Gorge through Naxi Guest House , 28 turns, you will arrive at Halfway Guest House with better location and view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain compared to other hostels.


Bernard Lee admiring at the puppies below at Halfway Guesthouse on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


The puppies at Halfway Guesthouse on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


We had the best apple pie made by the boss himself in Halfway Guesthouse on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


We had dinner in Halfway Guesthouse on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.

Day 17 (05.04.2010) Halfway Guesthouse to Tiger Leaping Gorge to Lijiang

Today was another 5 hours trek, 2 hours to reach Tina's Guesthouse for lunch and 3 hours trek down to the gorge and back to Tina's Guesthouse. The man who restored the path charges 10Y to use it. We hired 2 vans to take us back to Xiatio and there we changed to another bigger van to Lijiang.

Sleeping: Old Town Youth Hostel - 60Y a room for 2pax


A group photo with the boss of Halfway Guesthouse (center) before saying thank you and good bye.


The next day at 8.00am excited to see the mountain views, we started the trek for about 2 hours to reach Tina’s Guesthouse.


Stunning view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


It was a long long dirt trek by the mountain side on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Stunning view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


We all loved the long, strenuous and dangerous Tiger Leaping Gorge trek with amazing mountain view.


This Tiger Leaping Gorge trek got the best rating for the whole of China.


One of the two spectacular waterfalls on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


This high Tiger Leaping Gorge trek is quite dangerous that requires some previous trekking experience and good fitness. The waterfall areas are slippery and sometimes very narrow and also next to the ravine.


Ching Neng Bin and Bernard Lee near to the Guanyin Waterfalls of Tiger Leaping Gorge trek. 


Guanyin Waterfalls of Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Guanyin Waterfalls of Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


Ching Neng Bin at Guanyin Waterfalls of Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


One can only dream at the scenery and drink rewarding beers along the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


We met two Singaporean girls trekking from opposite direction on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


We took the wrong trek and got lost. We were all over the slope, but managed to get back on trek.


Sharon Tan appeared lost, but managed to join back on Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.


It was a 2 hour trek to reach Tina's Guesthouse for lunch and 3 hours trek down to the Tiger Leaping Gorge and back to Tina's Guesthouse.


Trekking down the Tiger Leaping Gorge from Tina's guesthouse to the middle rapids. We pay 10Y each to the guide and 10Y each for admission starting from the Teacher's House.


Stunning view of the Tiger Leaping Gorge.


A close-up view of the Tiger Leaping Gorge.


Bernard Lee and Ching Neng Bin couldn't stop admiring the breathtaking landscape of the Tiger Leaping Gorge.


This is the middle part of Tiger Leaping Gorge.


Chew Leng Soon walked across the bridge and back at the middle part of Tiger Leaping Gorge.


This is the middle part of Tiger Leaping Gorge. We all thought a hike would not be complete without visiting the gorge and understand why it is called “Tiger Leaping” after all. Legend says that in order to escape from a hunter, a tiger jumped across the river at the narrowest point (still 25 metres or 82ft wide), hence the name.


The tiger had to jump across the river at this narrowest point (still 25 metres or 82ft wide), hence the name.


The Sky Ladder of the middle section of Tiger Leaping Gorge.


The Sky Ladder of the middle section of Tiger Leaping Gorge.


Trekking all the way up to reach the Sky Ladder of the middle section of Tiger Leaping Gorge.


Trekking all the way up to reach the Sky Ladder of the middle section of Tiger Leaping Gorge.


The ‘sky ladder’ or ‘ladder to heaven’ with 170 steps and leans against the mountain attached to some random pieces of possibly rotting wood which may or may not be attached to the cliff face, and they are near vertical. The ladders are made of solid metal, but the rungs are so thin that your feet could easily slide off if it is wet. If you fall down, that is it. Otherwise, for some adventure hikers who want to try the sky ladder, make sure the shoes is proper and don’t look down. Once you start, you must trek up the scaring sky ladder until you reach the top. It seems like endless way when you are climbing. Actually, it only takes around 10 minutes.


Lim Kee Moon is at the top ‘sky ladder’.


A short walk from the ‘sky ladder’ to Tina's Guesthouse. We hired 2 vans to take us back to Xiatio and there we changed to another bigger van to Lijiang.

Day 18 (06.04.2010) Lijiang
 
Another free and easy day after the 3 strenuous days of trekking through the Tiger Leaping Gorge. Chew Siang Peng and Ching Neng Bin took a bus to the train station to get train tickets from Dali to Kunming enroute to Tibet 11.04.2010. As this was our last day in Lijiang, it was shopping night for the ladies and drinking beers for the guys.

Sleeping: Old Town Youth Hostel - 60Y a room for 2pax


Ancient architectures of Lijiang with intricate design and colours.


One of the typical entrances into the courtyard. The Old Town of Lijiang, which is perfectly adapted to the uneven topography of this key commercial and strategic site, has retained a historic townscape of high quality and authenticity. Its architecture is noteworthy for the blending of elements from several cultures that have come together over many centuries. Lijiang also possesses an ancient water-supply system of great complexity and ingenuity that still functions effectively today.
 
Day 19 (07.04.2010) Lijiang to Dali

11.30am bus (66Y) from Lijiang to Dali arriving at 2.30pm. This long distant bus stopped at the highway just outside of Dali and we had to take a van into Dali town. The atmosphere in Dali is almost like Lijiang but on a smaller scale. We walked to the South Gate then to the North Gate. Had western dinner at our Inn.

Sleeping: Mercury Inn - 100Y a room for 2pax
 

Lijiang countryside farmland on the road to Dali.


Dali Ancient City Gate. Dali Ancient City is one of the 'Three Ancients' (Ancient Cities, Ancient Pagodas and Ancient Steles) of the Dali Scenic Spot. It can be dated back to the year 1382 during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and has been among the top listed historical cities of China since 1982. With Erhai Lake to the east, and Cangshan Mountain to the west, its grand city wall, traditional Bai ethnic minority folk houses and marvelous scenery have been attracting many visitors.


Our lunch in Dali Ancient City - Yak meat and small river fish.


Our lunch in Dali Ancient City - Yak meat and small river fish.


Sleeping: Mercury Inn and Cafe in Dali Ancient City @ 100Y a room for 2pax.


Sleeping: Mercury Inn and Cafe in Dali Ancient City @ 100Y a room for 2pax.


Walking along 'Foreigner's Street' in Dali Ancient City. This street is where the famous cafes and guesthouses cluster along with souvenir shops and other interesting stores to create a little tourist paradise.


Dali is a small village town at an elevation of 1900m situated next to Lake Er Lai. It has impressive gates, old houses, walking streets and plenty of souvenir shops.


L-R: Ching Neng Bin, Lim Kee Moon, Chew Leng Soon, Choo Chiew Chin, Sharon Tan, Chew Siang Peng, Bernard Lee, Chan Meng Fai at Foreigner's Street in Dali, China


Walking along the waterway streets of Dali ancient city, This street is where famous cafes and guesthouses cluster along with souvenir shops and other interesting stores to create a little tourist paradise.


Waterway in the streets of Dali ancient city.

Dali Ancient City (South Gate). The oldest gate of Dali Ancient City. Wuhua Tower was first built in the year of 856 in Nanzhao for gathering and meeting. This symbolic architecture has five storeys offering a panoramic view of Dali Old Town, Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake.

Dali South Gate is also called Double Crane Tower or Cheng'en Tower, with a history over 600 years. This gate is the oldest building of Dali Old Town and become the symbol of the ancient town. The inscription "Da Li" on the city wall was inscribed by Guo Moruo, a famous modern Chinese writers.

Dali North Gate is called Anyuan Gate or Santa Gate which was first built in 1382. North Gate is the closest gate to Three Pagodas of Dali, about 1.5 kilometers away. Standing on the North Gate, travelers can have a look at Three Pagodas from afar.


Free entertainment by local artists beside Mercury Inn with songs and dances in Dali Ancient City.


We had our dinner in Mercury Inn and Cafe where we stayed in Dali Ancient City. And it was a dinner together for Chew Siang Peng and Ching Neng Bin who had to leave the group the next day to Chengdu for their planned trip to Tibet. As for the rest, would continue to travel around this region before meeting up in Traffic Inn Chengdu on the day before we travel back to Malaysia.


We had our dinner in Mercury Inn and Cafe where we stayed in Dali Ancient City.

We had our dinner in Mercury Inn and Cafe where we stayed in Dali Ancient City.

Day 20 (08.04.2010) Dali to Kunming to Chengdu

This morning, Chew Siang Peng and Ching Neng Bin bid farewell to the rest of the team as we both had to rush back to Chengdu to make the necessary arrangement for the Tibet tour. Traveling to Chengdu, we had to take a taxi (35Y) to Xiaguan for the 11.30am bus (133Y) to Kunming. Arrived Kunming at 3.30pm and continued by overnight train (248Y) to Chengdu at 7.30pm.

Sleeping: Overnight train to Chengdu
 

The statue of horses in Kunming Railway Station.


Arrived Kunming at 3.30pm and continued by overnight train (248Y) to Chengdu at 7.30pm.


The overnight train (248Y) from Kunming to Chengdu at 7.30pm.


Chew Siang Peng made new friend on board the train to Chengdu.


Dams along the railway line from Kunming to Chengdu.

Road, bridges and tunnel along the railway line from Kunming to Chengdu.

After a 19 hours train journey from Kunming, we arrived at Chengdu railway station at 2.15pm.

Day 21 (09.04.2010) Chengdu (rest day)

After a 19 hours train journey from Kunming, we arrived at Chengdu at 2.15 pm. We checked in at Traffic Inn to catch up with lost sleep. Evening was walking to Carrefour to buy bread and fruits.

Sleeping: Traffic Inn at 80Y a room

Day 22 (10.04.2010) Chengdu (preparing Tibet tour)

Today we finally confirmed our tour with Sichuan China Youth Travel Agency (CYTS) for the amount of 5,500Y per person. It was a 6 day tour - includes air tickets, food, accommodation, transport, government TTB permit and a English speaking guide.

The Chinese Govt. has imposed travel restriction on foreigner. Need to apply the permit through an agency, which will only sell you the permit as part of a package tour into Tibet.

Tibet tour fee: Y5,500 x 0.4752 = RM2,613 per pax
Sleeping: Traffic Inn at 80Y a room for 2pax

16 comments:

  1. Anonymous24 June, 2010

    Simply breathtaking!!!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Yong Choon24 June, 2010

    Ching,
    Beautiful mountains n walks... spectacular scenery
    and attractive bright colour costumes..
    Thanks for sharing...
    Choon

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hoh Kelly24 June, 2010

    Ching,
    It was fantastic...amazing trip. I don't know if I can do it.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi
    You are a great traveler & i really enjoy looking at the places you visited.
    Adeline

    ReplyDelete
  5. Kudos! Simply breath-taking photos and so very very well documented. I felt like I was there too!! TQ TQ for sharing all these ...

    ReplyDelete
  6. Very beautiful scenery and appreciate your informative captions too.

    Aaron.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Jacey Yew25 June, 2010

    Mr Ching,
    Thanks for sharing your wonderful trips photos - its all so beautifully captured..
    Is it ok if i forward to some of my friends? [closed friends] they would certainly like them.
    Best regards
    Jacey

    ReplyDelete
  8. Hi Bro Ching,

    All 0f you are great man,, I really admire everyone for the effort and determination for the hard and encouraging journey all of you conquered. Keep it up man, I will only go if there is a horse to ride all the way.........hahaahahah.
    Teh

    ReplyDelete
  9. Anonymous28 June, 2010

    Mr. Ching,
    Spectacular sceneries and kudos to all of you, with those trekking and climbing! Fuyoh Terror!
    Stephanie

    ReplyDelete
  10. Koay Bee Lee28 June, 2010

    Hello Mr Ching,
    Friday night I was looking at the beautiful and fantastic pictures you sent me. Your trip for 30 days is not for those faint hearted, climbing mountain & cross the huge land, anyway, good memories linger.
    Shall chit chat some other time. Thanks once again for the fantastic pictures, shall show to my sis when I am in Taiping.
    Regards to yr family
    Bee Lee

    ReplyDelete
  11. Hong Eng Koi29 June, 2010

    Hi Ching,
    Thanks for sharing your Tibetan Adventure. Thank you especially for featuring my 'Half Moon' in one of your photos; this really brings back my memory of our fishing trips.
    Warmest regards to you and family.
    E K Hong.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Sim Goay Chye30 June, 2010

    Hi Ching
    I am Sim from Property Div of Public Bank. Came to know that you have been organising
    backpacking trips all over and would like to join some of your trips if time permit. If you don't mind, would appreciate if you could put us ( me and my wife ) on your mailing list for your future adventures.
    Thanks.
    Sim GC

    ReplyDelete
  13. Hi Ching,
    Looking at all yr interesting amazing adventures, you should join the Amazing Race Asia to make Malaysia Proud since you are so experienced & been to so many Asian Countries, so fit and now that hv all the time in the world. We definitely will support you.
    Adeline

    ReplyDelete
  14. Koay Seok Khim27 July, 2010

    Congratulations! That was indeed a great achievement. You both are an inspiration for all retirees. I marvel at your energy and fitness as it is indeed a beautiful and long journey. Your adventurous spirit is most admired. The whole journey is most picturesque. How long did it take you both to prepare for the trip?

    Which part of china that you find most breath taking to you?

    Thanks for keeping in touch and do keep me posted of your future adventures. I am a contractor and my career days are also numbered.

    Regards
    Khim

    ReplyDelete
  15. Jennie Chew31 July, 2010

    "Wow!!!! The pics are simply awesome. Who took the photographs?? Beautiful scenes captured in perfect angles. Breathtaking indeed."

    ReplyDelete
  16. Goh Tong Kai11 August, 2010

    Hi Ching Neng Bin. Many thanks for sharing with me your backpacking trip to China and Tibet. I thoroughly enjoyed going through those excellent photo albums and account of the month long journey. It is as if I am also on this trip.

    ReplyDelete