Backpacking & Outdoor adventures by ChingNengBin - Namaste! Everest BaseCamp 5,364m : 2007 Backpacking to Cambodia & Vietnam (24 days) 13 Nov

2007 Backpacking to Cambodia & Vietnam (24 days) 13 Nov - 6 Dec 2007

L-R: Ching Neng Bin, Bernard Lee, Chew Leng Soon, Chan Meng Fye, Lim Kee Moon in front of Citadel, Hue, Vietnam

Day 1 (13.11.2007) KL to Phnom Penh, Cambodia

A dinner meeting was held on 12.11.07 together with our spouse at the Gold Dragon City Seafood Restaurant, Paramount Garden, PJ. The meeting was to discuss the final schedule and to welcome Lim Kee Moon to the team. On 13th morning at 10am, Lim Kee Moon, Bernard Lee and Ching Neng Bin together with our families gathered at Chan Meng Fye’s house for breakfast at a nearby shop. We then bid farewell before taking the LRT to KL Central where Chew Leng Soon was waiting for us. Here we took the 11.45am bus to KLIA LCCT and arrived at the airport an hour later.

We were on Air Asia flight No.AK 852 at 3.15 pm to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. About 2 hours later we landed at Phnom Penh airport. Proceed to Capitol Guesthouse for our accommodation. We then explore the town centre and walked along the river-side for a sumptuous dinner at Sa’em Restaurant, No.379 Sisowath Quay. The owner is Ms.Soya email: saemlysaoum@yahoo.com, known to Mr.Chan Meng Fye who was there during his last visit.

On Air Asia flight to Phnom Penh, Cambodia and about 2 hours later we landed at Phnom Penh airport.

L-R: Chan Meng Fye, Lim Kee Moon, Bernard Lee, Chew Leng Soon, van driver, Ching Neng Bin at Phnom Penh Airport

We then explore the Phnom Penh town centre and walked along the river-side for a sumptuous dinner at Sa’em Restaurant, No.379 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. The owner is Ms.Soya email: saemlysaoum@yahoo.com, known to Mr.Chan Meng Fye who was there during his last visit.

A sumptuous dinner at Sa’em Restaurant, No.379 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh. The owner is Ms.Soya email: saemlysaoum@yahoo.com, known to Mr.Chan Meng Fye who was there during his last visit.

Cultural show at the Phnom Penh riverside night market.

Day 2 (14.11.2007) Phnom Penh, Cambodia

After breakfast, we walked to Russian Market to buy T-shirts and shoes. We visited Wat Toul Tompong on the way and later to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. After lunch we walked back to GH for a rest. At the GH we purchased bus ticket to Saigon at US10 pp.

In the afternoon, we walked to Orussey Market, National Museum, Royal Palace, Wat Phnom, and Victory Monument and later visited the Cambodian Public Bank and met the branch manager Mr. Phan Yin Tong. Walked to the railway station, Governor’s House, Hotel Phnom Penh all along Monivong Boulevard and had dinner @ No.9 GH by the Boeung Kak Lake. For future consideration, a nice place to stay is the No.9 Angkor GH by the lake behind the Phnom Penh Hotel - US5 per room. As for food, Sa’em Restaurant along the river side is recommended.

Sleeping at Capitol Guest House Phnom Penh at US5 a room for 2 pax

Sleeping at Capitol Guest House, Phnom Penh – US5 a room for 2 pax

The busy street of Phnom Penh.

The busy Orussey Market of Phnom Penh is a sprawling, buzzing indoor market with stalls selling food, housewares, clothing & electronics.

The busy street of Phnom Penh.

Tuol Sleng Museum - In 1975, Tuol Svay Prey High School was taken over by Pol Pot's security forces and turned into a prison known as Security Prison 21 (S-21). It soon became the largest such center of detention and torture in the country. Over 17,000 people held at S-21 were later taken to the extermination camp at Choeung Ek to be executed; detainees who died during torture were buried in mass graves on the prison grounds. S-21 has been turned into the Tuol Sleng Museum, which serves as a testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge.

Tuol Sleng Museum in Phnom Penh.

When Phnom Penh was liberated by the Vietnamese army in early 1979, they found only 7 prisoners alive and 14 others had been tortured to death as Vietnamese forces were closing in on the city. Photographs of their gruesome deaths are on display in the rooms where their decomposing corps was found. Their graves are nearby in the courtyard.

Tuol Sleng Museum in Phnom Penh.

Each prisoner who passed S-21 was photographed, sometimes both before and after being tortured. The walls of the prison now display photographs of men, women and children who were tortured and later killed.

Tuol Sleng Museum in Phnom Penh.

L-R: Chew Leng Soon, Bernard Lee, Chan Meng Fye, Lim Kee Moon enjoying coconuts in Phnom Penh.

An old lady drying things on the house roof in Phnom Penh.

L-R: Chew Leng Soon, Bernard Lee, Ching Neng Bin, Chan Meng Fye, Lim Kee Moon standing taking lunch in Phnom Penh.

Shops in Phnom Penh.

After lunch, we walked to Orussey Market in Phnom Penh to buy T-shirts and shoes.

The busy Orussey Market of Phnom Penh is a sprawling, buzzing indoor market with stalls selling food, housewares, clothing & electronics.

After lunch, we walked to Orussey Market in Phnom Penh to buy T-shirts and shoes.

The busy Orussey Market of Phnom Penh is a sprawling, buzzing indoor market with stalls selling food, housewares, clothing & electronics.

We visited the Cambodian Public Bank and met the branch manager Mr. Phan Ying Tong.

Courtesy call to Mr Phan Ying Tong the Public Bank, Phnom Penh branch manager. L-R: Chew Leng Soon, Chan Meng Fye, Lim Kee Moon, Bernard Lee and Ching Neng Bin.

Phnom Penh Railway Station was constructed during the French colonial era, opening to passengers in 1932. Despite being effectively out of use as railway station for an 11 year period from 2005 to 2016 Phnom Penh Railway Station is a beautifully preserved building from a much different era.

The Al-Serkal Mosque is the main mosque in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. It was a gift from Al Serkal Family, United Arab Emirates and opened in 1968. It is situated north of the town, near the Boeung Kak lake, which is now dry.

L-R: Chan Meng Fye, Chew Leng Soon, Ching Neng Bin, Bernard Lee at No.9 Guest House, 93 Boeng Kak, Phnom Penh

No.9 Guest House at 9 Ph 93, Boeng Kak, Phnom Penh Cambodia

L-R: Chew Leng Soon, Lim Kee Moon, Ching Neng Bin, Chan Meng Fye at No.9 Guest House, 93 Boeng Kak, Phnom Penh

L-R: Ching Neng Bin, Chew Leng Soon, Chan Meng Fye, Bernard Lee at No.9 Guest House, 93 Boeng Kak, Phnom Penh

Ching Neng Bin, Bernard Lee, Chew Leng Soon, Chan Meng Fye, Lim Kee Moon at No.9 Guest House, Boeng Kak Lake

Sunset view at No.9 Guest House at Boeung Kak Lake Phnom Penh.

Streets of Phnom Penh

No.9 Guest House at 9 Ph 93, Boeng Kak

Day 2	Phnom Penh			Food	Transport	Room
14.11.07	Breakfast @ Capitol GH	Riel	21,800	19.82
Wed	Drinks	Riel	12,000	10.91
	Mineral water	Riel	6,000	5.45
	Lunch	Riel	30,000	27.27
	Dinner @ No.9 GH	Riel	40,000	36.36
	Dinner @ No.9 GH	US	10	33.60
	Tuk tuk from 9GH to Capitol GH	US	2		6.72
	Capitol GH - USD5 x 2 rooms	US	10			33.60

Day 3 (15.11.2007) Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City by bus

At Capitol guesthouse for breakfast, bus departed at 10am for Saigon and arrived at Cambodia Vietnam border of Moc Bai at 1pm for lunch, changed local currency and continued to Saigon arriving at 4.30pm. We noticed a few casinos at the Cambodian border. After dinner at Gon guesthouse we walked round Saigon City (district 1). Mr. Chew, Kee Moon and I went for a drink at the Seventeen Saloon with live-band in attendance.

Bus - Phnom Penh to Saigon is US10 pp
Bus ticket can be purchased at Capitol GH
Thanh Tuven GH – US18 for 2 rooms at No.84/12 BuiVien St. Pham Ngu Lao, District 1, Saigon

Ching Neng Bin, Lim Kee Moon, Bernard Lee, Chew Leng Soon had the best baguette breakfast at Capitol GH café, Phnom Penh.

Chan Meng Fye, Ching Neng Bin, Lim Kee Moon, Bernard Lee had baguette breakfast at Capitol GH café, Phnom Penh.

Byclcle for sale in Phnom Penh.

Bus departed Phnom Penh at 10am for Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

On the road country view by bus from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Neak Loeung ferry crossing the Mekong River towards Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Neak Loeung ferry crossing the Mekong River towards Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Crossing the river via the ferry can take more than a hour.

Neak Loeung ferry crossing the Mekong River towards Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Neak Loeung is a busy commercial town in Prey Veng Province, Cambodia. Located on the Mekong and astride National Highway number 1, it is the commune centre for Neak Leung commune and the capital of Peam Ror District.

Kings Crown Hotel and Casino in Bavet, Cambodia.

Banteay Chakrei International Border Checkpoint in Cambodia.

Thanh Tuven Guesthouse @ US18 for 2 rooms No.84/12 BuiVien St. Pham Ngu Lao, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Dinner at Gion Guesthouse, Ho Chi Minh City.

The large numbers of motorcyclist in Ho Chi Minh City.

Seventeen Saloon Saigon is a Western Saloon themed bar and one of the best live music bars in Ho Chi Minh, hosting two different bands every day. In the bar upstairs you can listen to a Filipino band playing Western songs and some Vietnamese on request, while downstairs in the main area a rock, heavy metal band is rocking the stage.

Seventeen Saloon Saigon is a Western Saloon themed bar and one of the best live music bars in Ho Chi Minh, hosting two different bands every day.

Seventeen Saloon Saigon a Western Saloon themed bar and one of the best live music bars in Ho Chi Minh, hosting two different bands every day.

Seventeen Saloon Saigon a Western Saloon themed bar with live music. Ching Neng Bin, Lim Kee Moon and Chew Leng Soon at downstairs area listening to a rock heavy metal band rocking the stage.

Seventeen Saloon Saigon a Western Saloon themed bar with live music. We were at downstairs area listening to a rock heavy metal band rocking the stage.

Day 3	Phnom Penh to HCM city			Food	Transport	Room
15.11.07	Breakfast	Riel	5,200	4.73
Thu	Breakfast	US	5	16.80
	Lunch at border	US	11	36.96
	Dinner @ Gon GH	Dong	220,000	48.89
	Bus from Phnom Penh to HCM City- R40k x 5 pax	Riel	200,000		181.82
	Thanh Tuyen GH @ US18 for 2 rooms	US	18			60.48

Day 4 (16.11.2007) Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

As usual, after breakfast we walked all over the city starting from Pham Ngu Lao road the backpacker area on District 1 or Saigon. There were plenty of places around here to fill up on eggs and bacon before the walk, but to soak up a real Vietnamese experience start the walk with a bowl of pho (noodle soup). From Pham Ngu Lao road, follow Nguyen Thai Hoc road north to the New World Hotel, turn right and follow Le Lai road to Pho 2000, a good place to sample some noodles – former US President Bill Clinton did, so it can’t be that bad!

Cross the road and enter the vast indoor Ben Thanh Market which is at its bustling best in the morning. Crossed the large roundabout where you’ll see a statue of Tran Nguyen Hai on horseback. One short block south, on Pho Duc Chinh road is the Fine Arts Museum. Walked east to Ham Nghi road and turn north again on Ton That Dam road to stroll through the colorful outdoor street market.

At the northern terminus turn west at the Huynh Thuc Khang to Pasteur road out to Le Loi road, the large boulevard leading towards the grand and thoughtfully restored Municipal Theatre. The popular War Remnants Museum is just a few blocks away along Nam Ky Khoi Nghia road. Reunification Palace is along Vo Van Tan road. After lunch we stroll north along Le Duan road to look at Notre Dame Cathedral and the impressive French-style post office. A few blocks northwest along Nguyen Binh Khiem road are the Jade Emperor Pagoda.

We had chee-cheong-fun for lunch, Pho2000 at tea-time and dinner at Ben Thanh Market. We then bought Mekong Delta tour ticket (US8pp) at Sinh Café and the Open Bus ticket to Hanoi (US25pp + US2 for sleeping)

Sleeping: Thanh Tuven GH – US18 for 2 rooms

Lim Kee Moon walking out of our Thanh Tuven Guest House in Hồ Chí Minh City.

Pork vendor on the five-foot way in Hồ Chí Minh City.

Breakfast with a bowl of pho (noodle soup) in Hồ Chí Minh City.

Cho Bến Thành Market is a large marketplace in central Hồ Chí Minh City, Vietnam in District 1. The market is one of the earliest surviving structures in Saigon and an important symbol of Ho Chi Minh City, popular with tourists seeking local handicrafts, textiles, áo dài and souvenirs, as well as local cuisine.

Statue of Tran Nguyen Hai on horse-back at Quach Thi Trang roundabout, Ho Chi Minh City.

L-R: Ching Neng Bin, Chan Meng Fye, Lim Kee Moon, Bernard Lee at Quach Thi Trang roundabout, Ho Chi Minh City.

Bao Tang My Thuat the Fine Art museum of HCM City, is the second in the country only to the Vietnam National Museum of Fine Arts in Hanoi.

A mosque in Hồ Chí Minh City.

Ho Chi Minh City Stock Exchange building.

L-R: Ching Neng Bin, Chan Meng Fye, Chew Leng Soon, Bernard Lee at Ho Chi Minh City Stock Exchange building.

Looks like Public Bank logo in Hồ Chí Minh City.

VID Public Bank, one of the first joint-venture banks in Vietnam, was established on 30 September 1991 as a 50:50 Joint Venture Bank between the Bank for Investment & Development of Vietnam ( BIDV ) and Public Bank Berhad, Malaysia. The Bank started operation in May 1992 with a single Branch in Hanoi and has to date expanded its network to all major cities in Vietnam.

Courtesy call to VID Public Bank, Ho Chi Minh City and met Ms Ho Minh Phuong the head of Operations.

Hindu Temple Pasteur in Hồ Chí Minh City.

A tangle of telephone wires on a utility pole in Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam.

We were surprised to see Parkson CT Plaza in Ho Chi Minh City.

Ching Neng Bin eating soya bean curd by road side in Ho Chi Minh City.

At the square in front of City Hall, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Ho Chi Minh statue stands in front of city hall and across the Rex Hotel. Just a place for you to take some photos. It's also facing a well kept park. You can walk to Notre Dame, Post Office and Opera house from here.

The impressive French-style post office. The Ho Chi Minh City Post Office near Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica, the city's cathedral. The building was constructed when Vietnam was part of French Indochina in the late 19th century.

Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon, officially Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of The Immaculate Conception is a cathedral located in the downtown of Ho Chi Minh City.

The War Remnants Museum in District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

The War Remnants Museum is a war museum at 28 Vo Van Tan, in District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. It contains exhibits relating to the Vietnam War and the first Indochina War involving the French colonialists.

The War Remnants Museum is a war museum at 28 Vo Van Tan, in District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Making fresh vietnamese rice paper rolls.

The Jade Emperor Pagoda - Entering the temple courtyard, there is a small pool on the right full of large tortoises. The interior is dominated by an effigy of the Jade Emperor, correctly addressed as 'Most Venerable Highest Jade Emperor of All-Embracing Sublime Spontaneous Existence of the Heavenly Golden Palace’. He is the head of the heavenly bureaucracy, governing spirits assigned to oversee the workings of the natural world and the administration of moral justice.

Demons and the ghosts of hell acted like bullies and outlaws threatening strangers in the real world and were treated accordingly. To avoid their attentions, people bribed them or invoked the martial forces of the spirit world’s officials to arrest them. The mighty Emperor monitoring entry through the gates of heaven is flanked by his senior officers, one bearing a light to illuminate the path, the other wielding an axe to administer justice. The King of Hell and his red horse are on the right of the chamber surrounded by the two gods of yin and yang, and four more gods who mete out punishment for evil and reward goodness. He looks towards the ‘Hall of the Ten Hells’, a room containing ten magnificently carved panes that vie with Hieronymus Bosch for depictions of the horrors awaiting the ungodly.

The Jade Emperor Pagoda is a Taoist pagoda located at 73 Mai Thi Luu Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. It was built by the Chinese community in 1909. It is also known from 1984 by the new Chinese name Phước Hải Tự, and as the Tortoise Pagoda.

The Jade Emperor Pagoda - Phước Hải Tự, Ho Chi Minh City.

The Jade Emperor Pagoda - Next door, there is another room with twelve ceramic figures of women with many babies presided over by Kim Hoa, the protector of all mothers and children. Each figurine represents a particular human characteristic, good or bad, and one year of the 12 year Chinese calendar. Childless couples often visit this small chapel to pray to be granted a child. To the left of the Jade Emperor in an enclosure containing Thien Loi, the god of lightning and other deities, is a life-sized effigy of a horse. This is also popular with women who seek fertility – they rub its flanks and neck and whisper their prayers in its ears.

Dinner at Ben Thanh Market, Ho Chi Minh City. Bến Thành Market is located in the center of Hồ Chí Minh City, Vietnam in District 1. The market is one of the earliest surviving structures in Saigon and an important symbol of the city.

Dinner at Ben Thanh Market, Ho Chi Minh City. Ben Thanh Market is a famous destination for many local and foreign tourists from all around the world.

Day 4	Ho Chi Ming city			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
16.11.07	Breakfast	Dong	106,000	23.56
	Tau Fu Fah	Dong	15,000	3.33
Fri	Fruits	Dong	20,000	4.44
	Coconuts	Dong	50,000	11.11
	Lunch - Chee Cheong Fun	Dong	96,000	21.33
	Pho 2000	Dong	187,000	41.56
	Dinner @ Ben Thanh Market	Dong	246,000	54.67
	Thanh Tuyen GH @ US18 for 2 rooms	US	18			60.48
	Mekong Delta Tour fee - US8 x 5 pax	Dong	640,000				142.22

Day 5 (17.11.2007) Saigon (Mekong Delta tour)

After baguette breakfast we walked to Sinh Café for the 9.30am bus to take us for the one day Mekong Delta tour. We first passed through the city of My Tho and then through Ben Tre. At Ben Tre we boarded the motorized boat ride to some islands and landed at Con Phung (Phoenix Island) for a Vietnamese lunch - Elephant Ear Fish.

Cruised along small creeks to Mekong River estuary, see the manufacture of handicraft made from coconut trees. Cruised through small rivers and visiting small villages in Ben Tre province – visiting orchards, bee-keeping farm, taste natural honey & honey wine, enjoy tropical fruit, traditional music.

We experienced horse-cart ride through the villages. Paddle our sampan on the small river out to our motorized boat. See coconut candy production process, taste candy & coconut pulp. Visit Mekong rest stop on the way back to Saigon at 7pm. Had the best dinner at Quan Anngon at 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Quan Mot. On the way back we had free concert at an open-air theater.

Sleeping: Thanh Tuven GH – US18 for 2 rooms
Mekong Delta tour ticket - US8pp at Sinh Café
Open Bus ticket to Hanoi - US25pp + US2 for sleeping

We had the best baguette for breakfast at Ho Chi Minh City.

After baguette breakfast we walked to Sinh Café for the 9.30am bus to take us for the one day Mekong Delta tour.

We boarded the motorized boat ride at Ben Tre for the one day Mekong Delta tour.

Ham Luong River view on motorized boat ride at Ben Tre for the one day Mekong Delta tour.

Fishing boats at Ham Luong River, Ben Tre, Vietnam.

Ham Luong River view on motorized boat ride at Ben Tre for the one day Mekong Delta tour.

Taxi boat at Ham Luong River, Ben Tre, Vietnam.

Ham Luong River view on motorized boat ride at Ben Tre for the one day Mekong Delta tour.

Next, we took a walk around a picturesque village and its beautiful, tropical surrounds at Con Phung (Phoenix Island) Vietnam. Con Phung is one of four famous islands in Mekong River Delta is well-known for its beautiful landscape, unique handicrafts and local specialties.

Chan Meng Fye and Lim Kee Moon at Con Phung (Phoenix Island) is well-known for its beautiful landscape, unique handicrafts and local specialties.

Visiting Con Phung (Phoenix Island) Vietnam.

At Con Phung (Phoenix Island) Vietnam.

Ching Neng Bin at Con Phung (Phoenix Island) Vietnam.

Lim Kee Moon at Con Phung (Phoenix Island) Vietnam.

Ching Neng Bin at Con Phung (Phoenix Island) Vietnam.

At Ben Tre we boarded the motorized boat ride to some islands and landed at Con Phung (Phoenix Island) for a Vietnamese lunch - the local specialities of elephant-ear fish.

Deep-fried Elephant-ear Fish must be served hot usually eaten with steamed rice, vegetables, herbs and sweet, sour and hot fish sauce dip. Instead of steamed rice, it is usually eaten with rice paper and rice noodles. Just use rice paper to wrap a piece of crispy fish, salad, cucumber, herbs, star fruit slices, green banana slices, rice noodles into a medium roll. Then dip the roll into fish sauce dip and tuck in.

Cruised along small creeks to Mekong River estuary, see the manufacture of handicraft made from coconut trees. Cruised through small rivers and visiting small villages in Ben Tre province – visiting orchards, bee-keeping farm, taste natural honey & honey wine, enjoy tropical fruit, traditional music.

At Unicorn Island, go walking around country lane and seeing orchards, enjoy tropical fruits, folk song music which performed by the local people.

Vietnamese traditional folk song music performed by the local people at Con Phung (Phoenix Island).

We experienced horse-cart ride through the villages in Ben Tre, Mekong Delta, Vietnam.

Paddle our sampan through Thoi Son canal out to our motorized boat in Ben Tre, Mekong Delta, Vietnam.

Riding a hand-rowed sampan through Thoi Son canal and treat yourself in the beauty of the countryside.

Ching Neng Bin helping in the coconut candy production process, taste candy & coconut pulp.

See coconut candy production process, taste candy & coconut pulp.

Had the best dinner at Quan Anngon at 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Quan Mot. On the way back we had free concert at an open-air theatre.

Day 5	Ho Chi Ming city to Dalat			Food	Transport	Room
17.11.07	Baguette for breakfast	Dong	69,000	15.33
Sat	Tip for musician	US	1	3.36
	Lunch @ Elephant Ear Fish	Dong	50,000	11.11
	Dinner @ Quan An Ngon	Dong	350,000	77.78
	Open bus to Dalat - US5 x 5 pax	US	25		84.00
	Thanh Tuyen GH @ US18 for 2 rooms	US	18			60.48

Day 6 (18.11.2007) Saigon to Dalat by bus

8.30am bus from Saigon to Dalat arriving at 4.30pm. The distance is 315km and takes about 8 hours. On the journey we stopped at Bao Loc pass for a spectacular view of the valleys & mountains. The evening was walking around the town centre and had dinner at Dalat Market. Very good hot soya beans drink and sweet potatoes sold by old lady along the main road. The cheapest and best mulberry wine in the world is found here in Dalat at US1 per bottle. We bought enough stock to last our journey to Hanoi. At night each of us drank a bottle and phoned Mr Val Allan to convey our greetings.

Bus – Saigon to Dalat is US5 pp
Hotel Hang Nga – US12 for 2 rooms, 01-Bui Thi Xuan Street, Dalat. (Opposite Sinh Café)

8.30am bus from Saigon to Dalat arriving at 4.30pm. The distance is 315km and takes about 8 hours

Lim Kee Moon and Ching Neng Bin waiting for the bus to Dalat at Sinh Cafe, Ho Chi Minh City.

The cleanest toilet I have seen at a petrol station on the road to Dalat- need to wear their shoe to get in.

The river view on the road to Dalat.

Lim Kee Moon had a nice sleep in the bus on the road to Dalat.

The main street in Dalat. Đà Lạt, the capital of Lâm Đồng Province in southern Vietnam’s Central Highlands, is centered around a lake and golf course, and surrounded by hills, pine forests, lakes and waterfalls. Known as the “City of Eternal Spring” for its distinctive temperate climate, Đà Lạt was developed as a resort by the French in the early 1900s, and many reminders of its colonial heritage remain.

Đà Lạt, the capital of Lâm Đồng Province in southern Vietnam’s Central Highlands, is centered around a lake and golf course, and surrounded by hills, pine forests, lakes and waterfalls. Known as the “City of Eternal Spring” for its distinctive temperate climate, Đà Lạt was developed as a resort by the French in the early 1900s, and many reminders of its colonial heritage remain.

Hot soya bean drink and sweet potatoes sold by old lady along the main road of Dalat, Vietnam.

Cheapest and best mulberry wine in the world is found here in Dalat, Vietnam at US1 per bottle.

A public concert performance in Dalat Festival.

Ching Neng Bin and Chew Leng Soon drank a bottle each and then phoned Mr Val Allan to convey our greetings.

Ching Neng Bin and Lim Kee Moon drank a bottle each and then phoned Mr Val Allan to convey our greetings.

Hotel Hang Nga – US12 for 2 rooms, 01-Bui Thi Xuan Street, Dalat. (Opposite Sinh Café).

Day 6	Dalat			Food	Transport	Room
18.11.07	Baguette for breakfast	Dong	61,000	13.56
Sun	Soya beans & sweet potatoes	Dong	27,000	6.00
	Dinner @ Dalat market	Dong	85,000	18.89
	Hotel Hang Nga, Dalat - USD12 for 2 rooms	Dong	200,000			44.44

Day 7 (19.11.2007) Dalat (1 day sightseeing trip)

We managed to get a car & driver from GH for US7.50 each to take us and explore around Dalat. The driver took us for the best noodle breakfast at Pho Hanoi which is 10minutes walk away from Dalat Cathedral.

Places of interest visited are: Chicken Village, incense stick making & the Buddha Dog, Prenn & Datania Waterfalls, Hang Nga’s Crazy House, Buddhist meditation monastery & Paradise Lake, Cremaillere Railway Station. Evening was walking & jogging round the 7km Xuan Huong Lake. We met three university students who were very eager to converse English with us. We had the best Vietnamese coffee beside the guesthouse and the worst dinner at Khach San Phu – the beef-steak is actually beef hamburger.

Sleeping: Hotel Hang Nga – US12 for 2 rooms

Dalat is at the Central Highlands built by the French colonists and still bears a resemblance to a French town. The drive from the south is satisfying, especially as you climb up through rubber, mulberry, coffee and tea plantations. Located nearly 1500m above sea level has a population of 130k. Dalat has a cool climate usually remaining between 10º C and 20º C throughout the year. This ‘eternal spring’ is responsible for its increasing importance as a fruit and flower growing area. Xuan Huong Lake, an artificial lake created by a dam in 1919 with a 7km perimeter.

Ching Neng Bin at Hotel Hang Nga, Dalat, Vietnam.

Lim Kee Moon and Chew Leng Soon at Hotel Hang Nga, Dalat, Vietnam.

The driver took us for the best noodle breakfast at Pho Hanoi which is 10minutes walk away from Dalat Cathedral.

Dalat Chicken Village - Famous for its 5m high giant concrete chicken in the village centre has become very popular with travelers. Once a KoHo ethnic minority village, it’s now a heavily-commercialized operation making inferior woven material to sell to tourists.

Dalat Chicken Village is about 16km outside Dalat city center. Also known as Lat Village or Lanh Dinh An, it’s home to some of Dalat’s ethnic minority groups.

We visited the children play-school at Dalat Chicken Village.

Wooden houses at Dalat Chicken Village.

Children at Dalat Chicken Village.

Vegetable farm land at Dalat Chicken Village.

Traditional incense stick making by an old woman in Dalat.

The praying Buddha Dog in Dalat.

Tịnh Xá Ngọc Thiền a colorful temple site & monastery featuring large Buddhist statues & scenic grounds near Prenn Waterfall.

Prenn Waterfalls - Need to walk down the slope on a path that first passes through a forest of pines and then continues steeply down the hill into a rain-forest. The falls are impressive and you can scramble around on the rocks to your heart's content (at your own risk, of course). It's a good place for picnics.

L-R: Ching Neng Bin, Chan Meng Fye, Lim Kee Moon, Bernard Lee, Chew Leng Soon at Prenn waterfall Dalat city.

Prenn waterfall is located at the foot of Prenn Pass which is 10 km far from Dalat city. It has the height of 9m, and the width of 20m and it lies on the stream of Prenn. From its height, the water flows down over a cliff of basalt rock creating a white curtain of water like the hair of a fairy.

L-R: Chan Meng Fye, Lim Kee Moon, Bernard Lee, Chew Leng Soon standing under the Prenn waterfall Dalat.

Lim Kee Moon standing under the Prenn waterfall Dalat.

L-R: Bernard Lee, Chan Meng Fye, Chew Leng Soon, Ching Neng Bin, Lim Kee Moon (standing) at Prenn waterfall Dalat.

Beautiful flowers at Prenn waterfall Dalat.

The river at Prenn waterfall Dalat. Across the bridge is the mini zoo.

The horse-cart at Prenn waterfall Dalat.

A walk up the hill through a forest of pines and into a rain-forest of Prenn Waterfalls.

A good walk up the hill through a forest of pines and into a rain-forest of Prenn Waterfalls.

Lim Kee Moon at Hung Temple Dalat. This temple is used for the ceremony of Hung King to commemorate and say thank you to our King and ancestors.

Hung Temple is used for the ceremony of Hung King to commemorate and say thank you to our King and ancestors.

Taking lunch at the food stall.

Datanla waterfall in Dalat also known locally as Thac datanla.

Datanla Waterfall bustling scenic spot with a small series of waterfalls, a roller coaster, cable-car & hiking trails.

Ching Neng Bin at Datanla Waterfall.

Buddhist meditation monastery (Truc Lam Pagoda) & the Paradise Lake (Tuyen Lam Lake). The Truc Lam Pagoda is a Buddhist meditation centre, and hence not open to visitors, but the gardens are well designed and a riot of colour. The far side of the lake is dense pine forests.

The Truc Lam Pagoda is a Buddhist meditation centre, and hence not open to visitors, but the gardens are well designed and a riot of colour. The far side of the lake is dense pine forests.

Tuyen Lam lake (Paradise Lake), 6km to the South of Dalat, has the water surface of 350 ha. It was created by Tia stream – head water of Da Tam river.

A cable car up the hill beside Truc Lam Pagoda.

Hang Nga’s ‘Crazy House’ is a truly memorable guest house if you don’t mind being uncomfortable. The owner is Mrs. Dang Viet Nga, is from Hanoi and lived in Moscow for 14 years, where she earned a PhD in architecture. The architecture is something straight out of Alice in wonderland and cannot easily be described: there are caves, giant spider webs made of wire, concrete tree trunk, and nude female statue.

Hang Nga’s ‘Crazy House’ is a truly memorable guest house

L-R: Chan Meng Fye, Bernard Lee, Ching Neng Bin, Lim Kee Moon at Hang Nga’s ‘Crazy House’ in Dalat.

The railway station without a railway - Well, almost! Once the terminus of a superb track connecting Dalat with Saigon and the rest of the country, it now serves a 7km track to Trai Mat village and back with a single USSR-built diesel locomotive and a couple of carriages.

Chew Leng Soon at the Dalat railway station.

Vietnamese tea time in Dalat.

The local university student wanting to learn English from us in Dalat.

At the very heart of Dalat city, is the Xuan Huong Lake. Used to be the site in which many indigenous people of Langbian highland inhabited, this man-made lake is nowadays the most beautiful lake of Dalat, giving the city an invaluable gift of having a lake right in the center.

Many people call it ‘Le Petit Paris’ with a mini-replica Eiffel Tower in its centre! Situated on a plateau 1,500 metres above sea level, this retreat town offers a good change of atmosphere with a refreshingly cool climate.

Hotel Hang Nga – US12 for 2 rooms, 01-Bui Thi Xuan Street, Dalat. (Opposite Sinh Café).

Day 7	Dalat			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
19.11.07	Breakfast - Pho Hanoi	Dong	72,000	16.00
Mon	Toilet fee	Dong	2,000	0.44
	Soya bean drink	Dong	50,000	11.11
	Lunch at Prenn Waterfall	Dong	90,000	20.00
	Cofee at Tho San Café	Dong	24,000	5.33
	Dinner at Khach San Phu (Steak)	Dong	175,000	38.89
	Dessert	Dong	10,000	2.22
	Hotel Hang Nga, Dalat - 2 rooms for USD12	Dong	200,000			44.44
	Entrance fee to Crazy House VND10k x 5	Dong	50,000				11.11
	Entrance fee to Datanla Waterfall VND5k x 5 pax	Dong	25,000				5.56
	Entrance fee to Prenn Waterfall VND10k x 5 pax	Dong	50,000				11.11
	Tips for driver/guide	Dong	50,000				11.11
	Dalat tour by car - US7.50 x 5	Dong	600,000				133.33

Day 8 (20.11.2007) Dalat to Nha Trang by bus

8.30am bus from Dalat to Nha Trang arriving at 2.30pm. The distance is 214km and takes about 6 hours. Sightseeing stopover was at Cham Sculpture Tower along the bus journey. After checking at GH, we walked and explore the town centre and had lunch at Red Star Rest. Dinner was at the GH. We booked the island boat tour from TM Brothers at US6pp.

Bus – Dalat to Nha Trang is US5 pp
Sleeping: No.62 Tran Phu Hotel – US15 for 2 rooms

At the rest area on the road from Dalat to Nha Trang.

Stopover was at Cham Sculpture Tower along the road from Dalat to Nha Trang. Po Nagar is a Cham temple tower founded sometime before 781 C.E. and located in the medieval principality of Kauthara, near modern Nha Trang in Vietnam.

Cham Sculpture Tower along the road from Dalat to Nha Trang.

Sleeping: No.62 Tran Phu Hotel in Nha Trang – US15 for 2 rooms

Nha Trang is a coastal resort city in southern Vietnam known for its beaches, diving sites and offshore islands. Its main beach is a long, curving stretch along Tran Phu Street backed by a promenade, hotels and seafood restaurants.

Sleeping: No.62 Tran Phu Hotel, Nha Trang – US15 for 2 rooms

Day 8	Dalat to Nha Trang			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
20.11.07	Baguette breakfast	Dong	30,000	6.67
Tue	Coffee	Dong	20,000	4.44
	Lunch @ Red Star Rest.	Dong	250,000	55.56
	Crabmeat pancake	Dong	30,000	6.67
	Dinner at 62 Tran Phu GH - Tuyet Mai Rest.	Dong	248,000	55.11
	Open bus to Nha Trang - US4 x 5 pax	US	20		67.20
	62 Tran Phu GH - US15 for 2 rooms	US	15			50.40

Day 9 (21.11.2007) Nha Trang (1 day boat trip)

The 10am bus took us to the harbor for the boat trip. First we visited the Mun Island (Ebony Island) to enjoy swimming, snorkeling and sunbathing. Visited Mot Island and had lunch with fresh seafood. After lunch we enjoyed the live-band performed by the boat-men. Many of us were dancing with the good music. An open floating bar was set up and we had to swim to the bar for free red wine and pineapple. Proceed to Tam Island, enjoy water sport services there and came back for seasonal fruits on the boat. Visited Tri Nguyen Aquarium where you see different kinds of fish, marine wildlife. By 5pm we returned to the harbor where the bus took us back to our hotel.

Sleeping: No.62 Tran Phu Hotel, Nha Trang – US15 for 2 rooms
One day boat trip from TM Brothers at US6pp.

The 10am bus took us to the harbor for the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

Day 09 (21.11.07) on the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

Mun Island (Ebony Island) to enjoy swimming, snorkeling and sunbathing on the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

Lunch time onboard the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

After lunch we enjoyed the live-band performed by the boat-men on the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

After lunch we enjoyed dancing on the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

After lunch time was dancing time on the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

Party time onboard the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

Floating bar was set up - we had to swim to the bar for free wine and pineapple on the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

After swimming, eating and dancing it was sleeping time on the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

Chew Leng Soon walking towards Hòn Tằm Island, Nha Trang.

Bernard Lee walking towards Hòn Tằm Island, Nha Trang.

L-R: Bernard Lee, Ching Neng Bin, Chan Meng Fye and Lim Kee Moon in Hòn Tằm Island, Nha Trang.

Hòn Tằm Island, Nha Trang.

Tri Nguyen Aquarium to see different kinds of fish, marine wildlife on the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

Fruits onboard the Nha Trang one day boat trip.

For the love of food, we had to walk 35 minutes from our hotel to a recommended shop at Lac Canh restaurant for do-it-yourself BBQ seafood & hot-pot dinner followed by our Dalat Wine.

Known for its grill-it-yourself beef barbecue (each table is equipped with a tiny grill of its own), Lac Canh is beloved by locals and the lucky few tourists who discover it.

Day 9	Nha Trang			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
21.11.07	Breakfast @ Des Amis	Dong	163,000	36.22
Wed	Water	Dong	25,000	5.56
	Dinner @ Lac Canh Seafood	Dong	308,000	68.44
	62 Tran Phu GH - US15 for 2 rooms	US	15			50.40
	Boat tour to 4 islands @ US6 x 5	US	30				100.80

Day 10 (22.11.2007) Nha Trang to Hoi An by bus

The day is free, but was unable to walk around because of rain the whole day. For dinner we had the best squid salad, spring roll & steam boat at Tuyet Moi restaurant beside our guesthouse at 62 Tran Phu Hotel. The bus leave for Hoi An at 8pm, hence, need not stay on this day, should have gone to Hoi An yesterday after the boat trip as we were back by 6 pm. The day was wasted doing nothing.

Bus – Nha Trang to Hoi An is US7 pp
Sleeping: Over-night bus

Ching Neng Bin's girldfriend in Nha Trang

Day 10	Nha Trang to Hoi An			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
22.11.07	Lunch at Thuy's Restaurant	Dong	190,000	42.22
Thu	Coffee at Des Amis	Dong	45,000	10.00
	Dinner at Tuyet Moi Rest. 62 Tran Phu GH	Dong	266,000	59.11
	Open bus to Hoi An - US7 x 5 pax	US	35		117.60
	Use of room before trip to Hoi An	US	4			13.44

Day 11 (23.11.2007) Hoi An

The distance from Nha Trang to Hoi An is 530km and takes about 13 hours. Arrived Hoi An at 9am. We stayed at Phuong Nam Hotel beside Sinh Bus Station, not an ideal place to stay as it’s away from town. The day was a very wet as it was raining all day long and we had to put on raincoat. We were told that the yearly monsoon was just over and the town was flooded by almost 5 feet.

After breakfast at the hotel, we did our Hoi An walking tour starting at Phac Hat Pagoda, heading east along Phan Chu Trinh Rd., turn right into the alley next to street number 69. Here lies the Truong Family Chapel. Back on the main road; look out for the Tran Family Chapel in the northeast corner of Phan Chu Trinh Rd. Head south now on Le Loi rd. and turn left at the next junction into Tran Phu Rd. visit the Museum of Trading Ceramics. Opposite the museum is the Historic House at 77 Tran Phu. Continuing along Tran Phu, there is a cluster of interesting buildings on the left side of the road, including the Chinese All-Community Assembly Hall and the Assembly Hall of the Fujian Chinese Congregation. Back on the road keep heading east and at the next junction you’ll see the Quan Cong Temple. Take a short detour north on Nguyen Hue to the Quan Am Pagoda & History Museum. Back on Tran Phu, still walking east, the Assembly Hall of the Hainan Chinese Congregation is on the left. Cross the next junction and the road becomes Nguyen Duy Hieu. On the left is the Assembly Hall of the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation.

Take the second right and turn right again into Phan Boi Chau, There is a whole city block of colonnaded French buildings here between Nos.22 and 73, among them the 19th-century Tran Duong House. Wander along Phan Boi Chau take the fourth street on your right, turn left into Nguyen Thai Hoc and soak up the ambience of this street. Turn right onto Le Loi then left into Tgran Phu. Almost immediately on the left is the Old House at 103 Tran Phu. Keep heading west now and you’ll pass the Assembly Hall of the Cantonese Chinese Congregation. A little further along on the left is the Museum of Sa Huynh Culture. Beyond the museum is the famed Japanese Covered Bridge, which connects Tran Phu with Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Continue westward and keep an eye out for Phung Hung Old House. Also check out Cam Pho Temple.

Evening was walking through the old streets of Hoi An where the Chinese celebrated the full moon festival with prayers and colored lanterns.

Sleeping: Phuong Nam Hotel – US20 for 2 rooms

Hoi An's History The Chinese took an interest back in the days of the Cham Empire, and began anchoring their ships in Tra Nhieu Bay, south of Hoi An, but it wasn't until the early fifteenth century that the area’s potential for trade was recognized. Originally known as Fai Fo, Hoi An was established somewhere between 1602 and 1618 by Nguyen Phuc Nguyen, the ruling ‘Lord’ at that time. He had close relationship with both the Japanese and Chinese, who were the first to use the new port via the trade winds. The number of traders expanded rapidly and by the mid-1600’s ships from Japan, China, Europe, India and the South Pacific countries congregated for an annual four-month trading fair. Fai Fo became a melting pot of cultures. Predominant were the Japanese and Chinese that ran with the trade winds. As many of the merchants often had to wait several months for favorable winds to carry them home, they established resident communities with their own rulers, legal codes and temples. Fai Fo reached its zenith in the middle of the seventeenth century, when it was among the largest ports in South East Asia. Towards the end of the 18th century, the river began silting up, coinciding with the focus of trade in the region turned towards China. Fai Fo’s value as a port dwindled rapidly as Danang began to develop. Renamed Hoi An in 1954, the town had reverted into a sleepy backwater until the rapid post-war rise in Vietnam’s population stimulated a considerable amount of urban development around the Ancient Town.

The centerpiece is the Ancient Town. It retains the original street pattern and many of its buildings. Some of the houses and temples participate in a ticket scheme: for US5 ticket contains five ‘tokens’ allowing visitors to choose what attracts them. The proceeds are directed towards renovation. However, nearly all the owners of the old houses are delighted to show visitors around.

Hoi An is also famous for its many restaurants offering both local and Vietnamese specialties, and international fare. The standard is high, and the prices inexpensive. It’s also a good place for shopping, especially for silk material and garments. Most of the silk shops are just outside the boundaries of the Ancient Towns – most can turn material into a tailor-made garment within 24 hours.

For early risers, the riverside end of the town’s market is an interesting place to be around 5 to 6am when the night fishing boats come in to unload their catches. The islands in the river and other local communities are worth visiting. In the past, there was a thriving network of craft villages, but they declined as the town slipped into obscurity. Nevertheless, some vestiges of the old trades are still to be found, such as boat building on Cam Kim Island. Some of the Cam Kim artisans were ‘recruited’ by boatyards in Ha Long, where they applied their skills to creating the distinctive wooden junks that have become a feature of the Bay and a popular tourist attraction.

About 4km from the town is Cua Dai Beach, part of an enormous strand of sand lining the coast as far as the Mekong Delta. Don't be misled by references to ‘China Beach’ – that's a section of Danang's My Khe beach. Cua Dai is just as good: clear water, and palm/ pine fringed sandy beaches. Further afield, visits to the Marble Mountains and the UNESCO World Heritage Area of the My Son Sanctuary would each take about half a day.

Hoi An's Buildings architectural development passed through 3 stages. The first was early period as an insignificant village of bamboo shacks, of which none remain. The second period was some time after it expanded into to become a flourishing commercial port attracting merchant ships from afar. From the middle of the seventeenth century, the growing Chinese and Japanese communities began erecting places of worship, assembly halls and, later, residential houses. The first of these were Chinese assembly halls that also served as temples for ancestor worship, followed by pagodas dedicated to the worship of Taoist gods, Confucius and Buddha. As the town became more prosperous and populous, further assembly halls and pagodas were built together with fine houses for merchants who had become full-time residents servicing an increasing volume of exports and imports. All were built predominantly of wood on a stone foundation. Those that survive are the architectural heritage that justified its World Heritage listing and are the main attraction for the hundreds of thousands of visitors that arrive each year. The architectural styles are based upon that of China and Japan, but there are also Vietnamese features and some influences from Europe and other countries that frequented the port. As the port declined during and the number of traders dwindled during the late 18th century, some of the buildings fell into disrepair and collapsed. The gaps were in-filled by unattractive rendered brick structures built in the boxy Vietnamese style.

The Assembly Halls Tran Phu, one of the main streets, has five interesting assembly halls all on the left hand side with your back to the bridge. Four are for specific ethnic groups in China, but the Chinese Assembly Hall is open to all Chinese seafarers. From the bridge, the Cantonese Assembly Hall is the first you come to, followed by the Chinese, Fukien, Hainan and, somewhat further, the Chaozhou Assembly Halls. All combine social and welfare functions as well as places for ritual and worship. Each has distinctive features usually relating to the sea, sailors and shipwrecks.

The many Merchants’ Houses are scattered around the town. Typically, they are a combination of Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese architecture, each with distinguishing features and styles of interior decoration. Many combined commercial and residential functions – storage and trading area in the front, and accommodation at the rear. They were usually long and narrow, with one or two interior open courtyards, sometimes with decorative pools, providing light and fresh air. Many also contained private temples, either incorporated into the structure or in a separate building, and family tombs. Larger houses had extensive lofts, also at the front and used as warehouses. A few similar structures can be found in Hanoi's Old Quarter.

One of the oldest Pagodas is the Ong Hoi An, dating back to at least 1653. Inside, a huge red-faced effigy of General Quan Cong dominates the array of statues and votive objects. The Chuc Thanh was built in 1744. Among the other pagodas and temples, you'll find a small Cao Dai temple tucked away. Comparatively modern, it is an outpost of Vietnam’s ‘tailor-made religion’ based in the south.

The Ancient Town of Hoi An, is on the mouth of the Thu Bon river. Facing the silted-up river that once made it a major trading centre, it is now a World Heritage Area and a popular destination. Its close proximity to Cua Dai Beach, good hotels and restaurants make it a pleasant place to spend a few days in the middle of a full tour of Vietnam. Although it's commercialized, it's a well managed site and retains it's 'village’ atmosphere. Apart from the ancient streets of wooden buildings, silk shops, river trips and a delightful monthly 'return to the past' evening when traffic and electricity is replaced by lanterns and traditional costumes, are additional attractions.

Chua Phap Bao temple was built with 2-storey architecture, nice decoration to every detail. The architecture bears the style of ancient houses in Hoi An.

The Japanese Covered Bridge. Unfortunately, the name leads most visitors to overlook the small pagoda of which it is an integral element. Indeed, it’s debatable whether it was of Japanese construction at all. Nevertheless, it’s an attractive structure and is probably enhanced by the mystery surrounding its origins.

The Japanese Covered Bridge is a 18th-century wooden bridge featuring elaborate carvings & a pedestrian passageway.

One of Vietnam's most iconic attractions, Hoi An's Japanese covered bridge dates back to the 18th century and is a beautiful historical piece of Japanese architecture. It is claimed that it was created by the Japanese then living in Hoi An as a way to reach the Chinese quarter across the water.

A shrine on Hoi An's Japanese covered bridge.

Ching Neng Bin standing beside Hoi An's Japanese covered bridge.

Vietnamese embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric using a needle to apply thread or yarn in Hoi An.

It was raining the whole day. Toa Thanh Tay Ninh in Hoi An.

BBQ by the roadside in Hoi An.

Chua Vien Giac in Hoi An.

A beautiful old lady in Hoi An.

At the market in Hoi An.

The species of silkworms utilised for silk manufacture at the Hoi An Silk Village is the Bombyx mori. The caterpillar of the domesticated silkmoth and the most popular silkworm used in the production of gossamer material.

At the Hoi An Silk Village.

Tran Family Chapel. Early 19th-century house & chapel built by the prominent Tran family, featuring relics & photos. The house is located in the center of the old town hence it’s easy getting there, especially by bike and on foot.

Both the Truong and the Tran family chapels are interesting. Both were built by ethnic Chinese people, and reflect the architectural styles of both China and Japan. The altar in the Tran chapel has a set of hand carved stone tablets commemorating the ancestors. The rear garden is a delight in miniature.

The rain continued in Hoi An. Hoi An is one of the most ancient cities of Vietnam, which will remind people of old houses with mossy tile roofs, streets flooded with red lanterns.

A tourist looking out at the flooded river while taking his lunch in Hoi An.

At the river side restaurant in Hoi An.

The flooded river in Hoi An.

The river and road is still flooded in Hoi An.

Hoi An is one of the most ancient cities of Vietnam, which will remind people of old houses with mossy tile roofs, streets flooded with red lanterns.

Another old temple in Hoi An.

Ching Neng Bin showing the height of the flood water level in Hoi An. The architecture of Hoi An's old houses is a unique example of a blend of many cultural styles.

The Quan Cong Temple at 24 Nguyen Hue Streets near the central market. This temple, typical of ancient architectural constructions, was built by the Minh Huong people (Chinese immigrants) together with Viet people. It was recognized as a “National Historic and Cultural Site” on 29 November 1991.

Hoi An’s Hainan Assembly Hall (會安瓊府會館). The layout of the hall was constructed using the traditional Chinese ‘Two Hall Two ’ (兩殿兩護龍室) architectural style which simply means that there is a Front Hall (前殿), Main Hall (正殿), an Open Air Courtyard (中程) and two covered halls on both the Eastern (左護龍) and Western (右護龍) sides, forming what looks like a square from above.

Hoi An’s Hainan Assembly Hall (會安瓊府會館).

Chua Ong Pagoda, Hoi An

Waking in the rain in Hoi An.

Fujianese Assembly Hall is a place of assembly for Hoi An’s Fujian community.

Fujianese Assembly Hall is a place of assembly for Hoi An’s Fujian community. The hall later became a temple dedicated to Thien Hau - Goddess of the sea. Thien Hau was naturally revered by China’s seafaring merchant class.

Fujianese Assembly Hall is a place of assembly for Hoi An’s Fujian community.

Tourists waking in the rain in Hoi An.

Art and craft work in Hoi An.

Faifoo Coffee & Restaurant, Hoi An.

Taking lunch in Faifoo Coffee & Restaurant, Hoi An.

Evening was walking through the old streets of Hoi An where the Chinese celebrated the full moon festival with prayers and colored lanterns.

Enjoying Dalat wine in Hoi An.

Sleeping: Phuong Nam Hotel – US20 for 2 rooms

Day 11	Hoi An			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
23.11.07	Breakfast at Vinh Hung Rest	US	16	53.76
Fri	Lunch	Dong	260,000	57.78
	Dinner	Dong	222,000	49.33
	Phuong Nam Hotel - US20 for 2 rooms	Dong	323,000			71.78

Day 12 (24.11.2007) Hoi An to Da Nang to Hue by bus

The distance from Hoi An to Hue is 120km and takes 5 hours. Departing at 8am and arriving at 1.30pm. Along the way, sightseeing stop-over at Marble Mountain, Hai Van Pass and the Lang Co beach. In Hue, we walked around the city, crossing the Phu Xuan Bridge visiting the Citadel and market. Walked back by Truong Tien Bridge. Dinner was at Cay Hoang Nam recommended by Singh Café.

Booked ticket for DMZ tour the next day @ US11 pp.

Hué has been one of Vietnam's main cultural, religious and education centres. Its Thien Mu Pagoda is one of the most famous structures in Vietnam. The remains of the huge, moated Citadel (Kinh Thanh), constructed by the Emperor Gia Long from 1804, contain many interesting sights, such as the Ngo Mon Gate, Nine Holy Cannons, Thai Hoa (the Palace of Supreme Harmony), Nine Dynastic Urns and the Halls of the Mandarins. Sadly, the intriguing Forbidden Purple City was largely destroyed during the Vietnam War. About 15km south of Hué are the splendid Royal Tombs, of the Nguyen emperors. Hué has many other places of religious and dynastic importance and some good museums.

Bus – Hoi An to Hue is US4 pp
Sleeping: Ninh Bing Hotel – US13 for 2 rooms

The mountain view from Hoi An to Hue. Marble Mountains are a popular spot for Vietnamese visitors, about 10km from Danang. Also known by their Vietnamese name of Ngu Hanh Son (Five Mountains Range), they face the East China Sea and contain some of the oldest pagodas in Vietnam.

The colour of the Marble Mountains in the 5 peaks differs: the Thuy Son Mountain has pink marble, while the Moc Son Mountain’s is white and the Hoa Son Mountain’s is brown. At its base is Non Nuoc, a stone carving village with more than a thousand people involved in making fine art works and Buddha statues from high-grade limestone, mostly for export worldwide.

At the base of Non Nuoc Mountain is a stone carving village with more than a thousand people involved in making fine art works and Buddha statues from high-grade limestone, mostly for export worldwide.

Entrance to Huyen Khong cave, protective deities, guardian figures, Marble Mountains, Ngu Hanh Son, Thuy Son, Da Nang.

Huyen Khong cave, protective deities, guardian figures, Marble Mountains, Ngu Hanh Son

Non Nuoc limestone carving masterpieces.

Some of the marble souvenirs available at Non Nuoc stone carving village for sale.

Passing through Danang town.

Lang Co Beach is a long stretch of white sand with a pretty village and an attractive lagoon.

Hai Van Pass - The Mountains straddled by the Hai Van Pass are generally regarded as an unofficial demarcation line between the north and the South Vietnam. It has spectacular views from its highest point, a good reason for avoiding the new tunnel cut through the granite peaks.

The Hải Vân Pass, is an approximately 21 km long mountain pass on National Route 1A in Vietnam.

The Hải Vân Pass, is an approximately 21 km long mountain pass on National Route 1A in Vietnam. It traverses a spur of the larger Annamite Range that juts into the East Sea of Viet Nam, on the border of Đà Nẵng and Thừa Thiên–Huế Province, near Bạch Mã National Park.

Hue Heritage Hotel

In Hue, we walked around the city, crossing the Phu Xuan Bridge visiting the Citadel and market. Walked back by Truong Tien Bridge.

Phu Xuan Bridge over the Perfume River. Hue sits on the banks of the Perfume River, so-called because during spring, the local orchards shed their flowers into the river, causing the water to smell like perfume. The river is an essential part of the history and heritage of Hue.

Tourist boat on the Perfume River. Hue sits on the banks of the Perfume River, so-called because during spring, the local orchards shed their flowers into the river, causing the water to smell like perfume.

In Hue, we walked around the city, crossing the Phu Xuan Bridge visiting the Citadel and market.

Hue Imperial City (The Citadel).

Stage of Flag at Hue Imperial City (The Citadel) is a 19th-century monument consisting of 3 pyramidal platforms with cannons & a large flagpole. Its most prominent feature is a tall flag tower.

L-R: Bernard Lee, Lim Kee Moon, Chew Leng Soon, Chan Meng Fye in front of Citadel flag tower at Hue, Vietnam.

The Citadel often referred to as ‘ancient’, Hue’s Citadel is comparatively modern in European terms. Built over thirty years in the early part of the 19th century, the Citadel encompasses three ‘courts’ covering a total of 6 km. The outer court within the massive brick walls, 10m thick in places, is mainly open space and gardens. The Imperial City, built along the same lines as the Forbidden Palace in Beijing, was the country's administrative centre. Senior mandarins, court officers and civil servants would have entered by the ‘Ngo Mon’ (noon gate). Directly behind were the Dai Trieu Nghi (great rites courtyard) and the Thai Hoa Palace (throne hall) where the Emperor would meet foreign rulers and emissaries, high-ranking ministers and other dignitaries. At the heart of the Imperial City was the ‘Tu Cam Thanh’ (Forbidden Purple City). Only members of the royal family, the Emperor’s concubines, and trusted senior mandarins and officers such as the royal doctor were allowed through the sole entry gate. Inside were various palaces and the Emperor’s private apartments. Less than a third of the structures inside the citadel remain. The French army shelled the building, and removed or destroyed nearly all the treasures it contained. Most of the buildings in the Forbidden City were destroyed by fire in 1947.

Hue Imperial City (The Citadel).

Further destruction occurred when Hue’s Citadel became the symbolic epicenter of the 1968 Tet Offensive. Major artillery battles were fought when the Viet Cong overran Hue and when the US forces finally recaptured the citadel 25 days later. Despite more than fifty years of decay and attrition, the Citadel is still imposing, and recent renovation work has restored several of its buildings to their previous glory. In front of the Hien Cam Lac, an elegant three-storey pavilion, are nine large bronze urns, each dedicated to one of the Nguyen Emperors, the largest being that of Gia Long, builder of the citadel and founder of the empire.

Hue Imperial City (The Citadel).

The Imperial City is a walled enclosure within the citadel of the city of Huế, the former imperial capital of Vietnam.

Thai Hoa Palace is the largest and most beautiful place which occupies the most prestigious position in Hue Citadel. It is located behind the Ngo Mon Gate makes it the first thing you see after entering the Imperial City. You will continue crossing the Trung Dao and Thai Dich Lake. Finally, passing through 3 yards of Dai Trieu Nghi courtyard, you will arrive at Thai Hoa Palace.

Hue War Museum is a museum of two parts. The more interesting part of the museum is the area close to the main entrance with two rows of heavy duty military equipment used in the Vietnam War. The first row is of war planes and artillery. The second row is of tanks, a helicopter and a small US Air Force Cessna jet fighter.

Connecting across Perfume River, Truong Tien Bridge was inaugurated in 1899 with its length of 402.60m and 5.40m wide. The bridge was designed in Gothic architecture with new techniques and materials of the West at that time.

We walked back by Truong Tien Bridge. Connecting across Perfume River, Truong Tien Bridge was inaugurated in 1899 with its length of 402.60m and 5.40m wide. The bridge was designed in Gothic architecture with new techniques and materials of the West at that time.

Walked back to Ninh Bing Hotel – US13 for 2 rooms

Sleeping: Ninh Bing Hotel – US13 for 2 rooms

Day 12	Hoi An to Hue			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
24.11.07	Breakfast at Phuong Nam	Dong	78,000	17.33
Sat	Noddle lunch in Hue	Dong	75,000	16.67
	Dinner at Cay Hoang Nam	Dong	170,000	37.78
	Open bus to Hue - US4 x 5 pax	US	20		67.20
	Ninh Binh Hotel for 2 rooms	US	13			43.68

Day 13 (25.11.2007) Hue (DMZ tour)

Military Sites on Highway 1, we visited Dong Ha town, Hien Luong Bridge, Ben Hai River, Vinh Moc Tunnels & Museum. Dong Ha town is at the busy intersection of Hwys 1 & 9. It served as a US Marine Corps. Command and logistics centre from 1968 to ’69. In the spring of 1968, a division of North Vietnamese troops crossed the DMZ and attacked Dong Ha.

Military Sites on Highway 9, we visited The Rockpile, Dakrong Bridge, Ho Chi Minh Trail and Khe Sanh Base.

The Rockpile was named after what can only be described as a 230m high pile of rocks. There was a US Marine Corps look-out on top of the Rockpile and a base for US long-range artillery.

We had lunch at Danang and came back to Hue at 7pm for dinner at Phuong Nam café as recommended by Lonely Planet and were very good. Booked ticket for River tour the next day.

DMZ tour - US11 pp
Sleeping: Ninh Bing Hotel – US13 for 2 rooms

Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). From 1954 to 1975, the Ben Hai River served as the demarcation line between the North and South. On either side of the river was an area 5km wide that was known as DMZ. Ironically, as the conflict escalated, it became one of the most militarized zones in the world. It left a barren desert created by hundreds of thousands of tons of high explosive, estimated to be the equivalent of seven Hiroshima atom bombs, as well as napalm, phosphorous and herbicide. Today, nature has reclaimed much of the land, but craters are visible almost everywhere in the area. Following the signing of the Paris cease-fire agreements in 1973, the present Hien Luong Bridge and the two flag towers were built.

Ben Hai River and Hien Luong Bridge (17 Latitudinal). Ben Hai River is 22km north of Dong Ha, once the demarcation line between North and south. Following the signing of the Paris cease-fire agreements in 1973, the present Hien Luong Bridge and the two flag towers were built.

Ben Hai River is 22km north of Dong Ha, once the demarcation line between North and south. Following the signing of the Paris cease-fire agreements in 1973, the present Hien Luong Bridge and the two flag towers were built.

Following the signing of the Paris cease-fire agreements in 1973, the two flag towers were built.

The large numbers of speakers used for propaganda at DMZ Hien Luong Bridge (17 Latitudinal) Vietnam.

The structural plan of Vịnh Mốc Tunnels. Vinh Moc is the remains of a coastal North Vietnamese village that literally went underground in response to unremitting American bombing. More than 90 families disappeared into three levels of tunnels running for almost 2km, and continued to live and work while bombs rained down around them.

A bomb crater left behind in the former Vinh Moc Tunnels Village.

Trenches in Vinh Moc Tunnels.

A bomb crater left behind in the former Vinh Moc Tunnels Village.

The water-well serving the Vinh Moc Tunnels.

When the War took place in Vinh Moc from 1966 to 1972, the United States Army released over 9,000 tons of bombs in the area, with a ratio of 7 tons of bombs on average per person.

Vịnh Mốc Tunnels. The locals began to dig tunnels in 1965 and finished in 1967 with simple tools in 18,000 labor days. The total length of the tunnels is nearly 2,000 m long with six entrances to the tops of hills and seven entrances to the South China sea.

"TO BE OR NOT TO BE !" (in Vietnamese) at Vinh Moc Tunnels & Museum.

Ching Neng Bin at Vinh Moc Tunnels & Museum.

Vinh Moc Tunnels – We walked through part of this 2.8km, all of which can be visited and for viewing by tourists. The underground passageways are larger and taller than those at Cu Chi near HCMC. There are lights installed inside the tunnels. We came out of the tunnel on the other side facing the South China Sea. Offshore is Con Co Island, which during the war was an important supply depot. In 1966, USA began a massive aerial and artillery bombardment of North Vietnam. Just north of the DMZ, the villagers of Vinh Moc were living in one of the most heavily bombed and shelled strips of land on the planet. Small family shelters could not withstand this onslaught and villagers either fled or began tunneling by hand into the red-clay earth. All families lived here and 17 babies were born in the underground delivery room. The tunnel network has 12 entrances and was built on three levels ranging from 15m to 26m below.

Using only primitive tools, 7000 workers managed to dig out a network of 1,045m of underground passages in about 18 months. The local soil (clay) with limestone made it possible to dig deep into bomb-proof levels. The tunnels have been constructed on three different levels, due to the heavy attacks by the American troops.

Descending down to the next level in the Vinh Moc Tunnels.

The Vinh Moc Tunnels are located in the vicinity of the DMZ, in central Vietnam.

A family-room in Vinh Moc Tunnels.

The maternity-room in Vinh Moc Tunnels.

L-R: Bernard Lee, Chan Meng Fye, Lim Kee Moon, Chew Leng Soon, Ching Neng Bin in Vinh Moc Tunnels.

Beach of South China Sea at one of the exits in Vinh Moc Tunnels.

One of the entrances into the Vinh Moc Tunnels from the sea.

Our Vinh Moc Tunnels lady guide.

We had lunch at Danang

The Rockpile was named after what can only be described as a 230m high pile of rocks. There was a US Marine Corps look-out on top of the Rockpile and a base for US long-range artillery.

Dakrong Bridge crosses the Dakrong River rebuilt in 2001 and was part of the HCM Trail.

Ching Neng Bin with the local boys on the Dakrong Bridge.

Dakrong River in Vietnam.

Khe Sanh Combat Base was a United States Marine Corps outpost south of the Vietnamese Demilitarized Zone used during the Vietnam War.

Khe Sanh Combat Base is the site of the most famous siege. It sits silently on a barren plateau, surrounded by vegetation-covered hills that are often covered by mist and fog. In early 1968 the bloodiest battle of the war took place here and about 500 Americans and 10k North Vietnamese troops and uncounted civilian bystanders died amid the fire of machine guns and the fiery explosions of 1000kg bombs, white-phosphorus shells, napalm, mortars and artillery rounds of all sorts. The site includes the recent addition of a small memorial museum. A couple of bunkers have been recreated and some photos and other memorabilia are on show. Behind the main site, the outline of the airfield remains distinct – to this day nothing will grow on it.

Khe Sanh Combat Base Museum

Ching Neng Bin and Chew Leng Soon at Khe Sanh Combat Base Museum

Khe Sanh Combat Base Museum

L-R: Ching Neng Bin, Bernard Lee, Lim Kee Moon, Chew Leng Soon, Chan Meng Fye at Khe Sanh Combat Base Museum

Day 13	Hue			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
25.11.07	Baguette breakfast	Dong	55,000	12.22
Sun	Dinner at Phuong Nam	Dong	170,000	37.78
	Mineral water	Dong	40,000	8.89
	Ninh Binh Hotel for 2 rooms	US	13			43.68
	DMZ tour - US11 x 5	US	55				184.80

Day 14 (26.11.2007) Hue to Hanoi by bus

Morning was the dragon boat river tour along the Perfume River for US3 pp. Places visited were Thien Mu pagoda, Tu Duc Tomb, Minh Mang Tomb, Khai Dinh Tomb and Hon Chen temple. The bus departed for Hanoi at 5.30 pm.

Bus – Hue to Hanoi is US9 +US2 pp
Taxi – Bus station to Old Quarter – D24k
Dragon boat river tour – US3pp
Sleeping: Over-night bus

Morning was the dragon boat river tour along the Perfume River for US3 pp

Morning was the dragon boat river tour along the Perfume River for US3 pp. Places visited were Thien Mu pagoda, Tu Duc Tomb, Minh Mang Tomb, Khai Dinh Tomb and Hon Chen temple.

Morning was the dragon boat river tour along the Perfume River for US3 pp

Thien Mu Pagoda founded in 1601 was a hotbed of anti-government protest during the early 1960s.The monk Thich Quang Duc travelled to Saigon and publicly burned himself to death to protest the policies of President Ngo Dinh Diem. A famous photograph of his act was printed on the front pages of newspapers around the world. His death soon inspired a number of other self-immolations. Built on a hillock overlooking the Perfume River. The 21m high octagonal tower, the 7-storey Thap Phuoc Duyen, was constructed under the reign of Emperor Thieu Tri in 1844.

The front of the Thien Mu Pagoda can be reached by climbing up a steep staircase from the river’s edge. Upon reaching the top of the staircase, facing north, you’ll see the Phuoc Duyen tower, flanked by two smaller pavilions containing sacred objects.

The octagonal seven-level pagoda known as Phuoc Duyen Tower is the most prominent single structure in Thien Mu Pagoda; standing on the crest of the hill, the tower is visible from far away. The tower is a 68-foot-high octagonal structure, stepped into seven levels. Each level is devoted to one Buddha who came to Earth in human form, represented in each level of the tower as a single Buddha statue arranged to face the south.

The octagonal seven-level pagoda known as Phuoc Duyen Tower of Thien Mu Pagoda

Thien Mu Pagoda's Stone Steles. To the tower’s right is a pavilion containing an eight-foot-high stone stele set on the back of a giant marble turtle. The stele was carved in 1715 to commemorate the Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu's recently-completed renovation of the pagoda; the Lord himself penned the text inscribed on the stele, which describes the pagoda's new buildings, extols Buddhism and praises the monk who helped the Lord spread the faith in the region.

The beautiful stone turtle with a stele on its back at Thien Mu Pagoda.

Thien Mu Pagoda's Stone Steles. To the tower’s left is a pavilion housing a giant bronze bell, known as Dai Hong Chung. The bell was cast in 1710, and its dimensions make it one of Vietnam’s most significant achievements in bronze casting for its time. Dai Hong Chung weighs 5,800 pounds and is four and a half feet in circumference. The bell’s peals is said to be audible from up to six miles away.

Near the Thien Mu Pagoda's Sanctuary Hall entrance gate, there stand 12 large wooden sculptures of fearsome temple guardians, with real facial hair.

Statue of god warrior guarding the gates of Thien Mu Pagoda main sanctuary.

Thien Mu Pagoda's Sanctuary Hall also known as Dai Hung Shrine, is accessible through a gate and a long walkway crossing a pleasant courtyard. The sanctuary hall is divided into two separate segments - the front hall is separated from the main sanctuary by a number of folding wooden doors. The sanctuary hall enshrines three statues of the Buddha (which symbolizes past, present, and future lives), as well as several other important relics, including a bronze gong and a gilded board adorned with inscriptions by the Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu.

This Shrine holds a rather grim reminder of the chaos that ripped through the country in the midst of the Vietnam War. In 1963, a Buddhist monk from Thien Mu Pagoda, Thich Quang Duc, rode from Hue to Saigon. When he got to the capital, he burned himself on the street in an act of defiance against the pro-Catholic Ngo regime. The car that brought him to the capital is currently enshrined in the rear of the sanctuary hall - not much to look at now, a rusty old Austin sitting on wooden blocks, but still resonating with the power of that self-sacrificing gesture.

Thien Mu Pagoda's Sanctuary Hall also known as Dai Hung Shrine.

A complex of monastic buildings lies in the centre, where Buddhist monks conduct their daily routine of studying, cooking, stacking wood, gardening and practicing their calligraphy.

Buddhist monks studying at Thien Mu Pagoda's Sanctuary Hall.

Ching Neng Bin with a Buddhist monks at Thien Mu Pagoda's Sanctuary Hall.

Bernard Lee with two Buddhist monks at Thien Mu Pagoda's Sanctuary Hall.

Vietnamese Cemetery near Thien Mu Pagoda in Hue, Vietnam

Lunch onboard the boat.

By overnight bus from Hue to Hanoi is US9 + (US2 for sleeper)

Day 14	Hue to Hanoi			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
26.11.07	Breakfast at Phuong Nam, Hue	Dong	84,000	18.67
Mon	Early Dinner at Cay Phuong Nam	Dong	226,000	50.22
	Overnight bus to Hanoi - US7 x 5 pax	US	35		117.60
	Perfume River tour - US3 x 5	US	15				50.40

Day 15 (27.11.2007) Hanoi, Vietnam

The distance from Hue to Hanoi by night bus is 660km and takes about 14 hours. The bus departed Hue at 5.30pm and arrived at Hanoi next morning 7.30am. Took a taxi to Old Quarter and had very good beef-noodle breakfast at Pho Manh Cuong 23. Check in at Bao Long Hotel. The day was spent walking the old-quarter. We had lunch at one dish restaurant at Cha Ca La Vong. Yew Thean Lye and friends arrived at 8pm from airport and had dinner together at Hang Voi Restaurant. We then bought returned train ticket to Sapa on 28th night at US50 pp. Evening was an all-night-long drinking session by the 5 foot-way as a cold glass of Beer-Hoi is only RM0.40cent.

Sleeping: Bao Long Hotel – US4 per person

Lunch at one dish restaurant at Cha Ca La Vong in Hanoi.

Hanoi fruit dessert by the road side.

Hoan Kiem Lake, also known as Hồ Gươm, is a fresh water lake, measuring some 12 ha in the historical center of Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam.

Yew Thean Lye and friends arrived at 8pm from airport and had dinner together at Hang Voi Restaurant, Hanoi.

Ching Neng Bin drinking beer by the 5 foot-way as a cold glass of Beer-Hoi is only RM 40cent.

The best part of the day in Hanoi is the night drinking Bia-Hoi. Cheapest beer in the world is the draft Hoi Beer at RM0.50 or D2,000 a glass.

Lim Kee Moon drinking beer by the 5 foot-way as a cold glass of Beer-Hoi is only RM 40cent.

The best part of the day in Hanoi is the night drinking Bia-Hoi. Cheapest beer in the world is the draft Hoi Beer at RM0.50 or D2,000 a glass.

Ching Neng Bin and Chew Leng Soon drinking beer by the 5 foot-way as a cold glass of Beer-Hoi is only RM 40cent.

From Sing Cafe we bought returned train ticket to Sapa on 28th night at US50 pp.

Day 15	Hanoi			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
27.11.07	Breakfast @ C'uong (beef Pho)	Dong	80,000	17.78
Tue	Lunch at Cha Ca Lavong (Fish Dish) D70k x 5 pax	Dong	413,000	91.78
	Dessert	Dong	29,000	6.44
	Dinner at Hang Voi Rest.	Dong	220,000	48.89
	Taxi - Bus station to Sind Café	Dong	48,000		10.67
	Bao Long Hotel, Hanoi for 2 rooms	US	20			67.20

Day 16 (28.11.2007) Hanoi to Sapa by night train

Morning in Hanoi was spent walking to places of interest in the city and window shopping to check out prices for things to buy on the last day. Visited Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, One Pillar Pagoda, Ho Chi Minh Museum, The Hanoi Flag Tower.

We took taxi to train station and had dinner there before we leave at 10pm night-train to Sapa. Do not get your train ticket from tour agent; get it at the train station at US40 pp for return trip instead of US50.

Train – Hanoi to Lao Cai – US25 pp
Sleeping: Over-night 10pm train from Hanoi to Sapa

Morning in Hanoi was spent walking to places of interest in the city and window shopping to check out prices for things to buy on the last day.

The President Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is a mausoleum which serves as the resting place of Vietnamese Revolutionary leader & President Ho Chi Minh in Hanoi, Vietnam.

Guards at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.

Rising from one pillar in the centre of an elegantly square shaped lotus pond, The One Pillar Pagoda is said to represent a lotus flower growing up out of the water. Built between the years of 1028 and 1054 during the reign of Emperor Ly Thai Tong of the Ly Dynasty, the One Pillar Pagoda is one of Vietnam’s most iconic temples.

The One Pillar Pagoda is one of Vietnam’s most iconic temples.

The shrine beside the One Pillar Pagoda.

Ho Chi Minh Museum is constructed in the 1990s, it is dedicated to the late Vietnamese leader Ho Chi Minh and Vietnam's revolutionary struggle against foreign powers.

Hồ Chí Minh, born Nguyễn Sinh Cung, also known as Nguyễn Tất Thành.

Hồ Chí Minh was a Vietnamese revolutionary and politician. He served as Prime Minister of Vietnam from 1945 to 1955 and President from 1945 to 1969.

Ho Chi Minh Museum is constructed in the 1990s

The Hanoi Flag Tower is in the complex of the Vietnam Military History Museum on Dien Bien Phu Street. It was built in 1805 and completed in 1812 during the reign of King Gia Long of the Nguyen Dynasty.

Vietnam Military History Museum on Dien Bien Phu Street.

Walking around the Hanoi market.

The best part of the day in Hanoi is the night drinking Bia-Hoi. Cheapest beer in the world is the draft Hoi Beer at RM0.50 or D2,000 a glass.

The best part of the day in Hanoi is the night drinking Bia-Hoi. Cheapest beer in the world is the draft Hoi Beer at RM0.50 or D2,000 a glass. Ching Neng Bin, Lim Kee Moon and Chew Leng Soon never stop drinking Bia-Hoi.

We took taxi to train station and had dinner there before we left at 10pm night-train from Hanoi to Sapa.

Day 16	Hanoi to Sapa			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
28.11.07	Pho breakfast	Dong	90,000	20.00
Wed	Lunch	Dong	135,000	30.00
	Dessert	Dong	30,000	6.67
	Dinner at train station	Dong	90,000	20.00
	Taxi to Tran Quay Cap train station, Hanoi	Dong	50,000		11.11
	Train fare - Hanoi/Sapa & return - US25 x2 x5 pax	US	250		840.00
	Entrance fee to Ho Chi Minh Museum	Dong	50,000				11.11

Day 17 (29.11.2007) Sapa

Arrived at 6am at Lao Cai railway station and took a van to Sapa for breakfast at Hill View Restaurant. After check in @ Pinocchio Hotel, we walked around and explore the town and market area where dog-meat is for sale. We met three teachers from Malacca who joint us for trekking. The temperature is at 15C very cold for us.

Sapa came into existence as a hill station during the French occupation in 1922. Previously a Black H’mong village, it was discovered early in the 20th century and developed as a resort for French military officers. Nestled in a beautiful valley close to the Chinese border, the spectacular scenery that surrounds Sapa includes cascading rice terraces. The valleys and villages around Sapa are home to a host of hill-tribe people who wander in to town to buy, sell and trade.

For souvenirs, please buy from the markets as you’ll be dealing direct with the producer, not giving the profits to the wealthy shop owner. Bear in mind that very few of the shops, restaurants and hotels in the tourist areas are owned by local people.

Sleeping: Pinochio Hotel – US13 for 2 rooms
Van – Lao Cai train station to Sapa – D25k pp

Sitting at the foot of Ham Rong Mountain, Pinochio Hotel is located in central Sapa with views of Violet Valley and Fansipan Mountain.

City view from Pinochio Hotel in central Sapa.

City view from Pinochio Hotel in central Sapa with views of Violet Valley.

Sapa the small hill French style town was a popular retreat for the French colonizers, but faded into obscurity after they left. It wasn't until 1993, when the Vietnamese government decided to open the area to full tourism, that it began to recover.

Sapa the small hill French style station was a popular retreat for the French colonizers.

Officially the Holy Rosary Church, the Stone Church was built by the French in Gothic style in 1895. It is considered to mark the center of the town. The 20 meter / 66m foot bell tower contains a 1.5m / 5ft tall bell cast in 1932, which weighs 500kg / 1,102 pounds.

Bernard Lee at Stone Church of Sapa station. We were in this church to pray for our safe journey.

Sapa town market.

At Sapa Market, you find different ethnic people busy selling and buying things for themselves. The most famous goods at the Sapa market must be from the local craftsmen, local specialties such as fresh vegetables, fruits, spices are best-sellers.

At Sapa Market, you find different ethnic people busy selling and buying things for themselves.

Chan Meng Fye and Chew Leng Soon talking to the H’mong ethnic minority.

At Sapa Market, you find different ethnic people busy selling and buying things for themselves.

Dog meat for sale at the Sapa market.

Dog for sale at the Sapa market.

Road side BBQ chicken for sale in Sapa town.

Red Hmong tribe in Sapa. Ethnic minorities in Vietnam are mostly hill tribes residing at high altitudes in the mountains. In particular, the Sapa area in the northwest of Vietnam, near the border with China, is a center of Vietnamese tribal culture.

The Red Hmong hill tribe of Sapa.

The Black Hmong hill tribe of Sapa.

Going to the Sapa markets is the easiest to learn more and deeper about the way of life of the native people here. Furthermore, tourists will have a chance to enjoy local specialties and get unique Sapa souvenirs.

The Black Hmong hill tribe of Sapa.

The two Malaysian in Sapa: Lim Kee Mon and Chan Meng Fye.

The Black Hmong hill tribe of Sapa.

The Red Hmong hill tribe of Sapa tailoring market.

The Black Hmong hill tribe of Sapa tailoring market.

Wood handicraft of Sapa for sale.

Sapa Lake located in the center of Sapa town is not a natural landscape, it is just an artificial lake to attract tourists.

Lim Kee Moon with a Black Hmong hill tribe at Sapa Lake area.

Ching Neng Bin with a Black Hmong hill tribe at Sapa Lake area.

Persimmon fruit trees in Sapa.

French style building on top of a small hill in Sapa.

The scenic Sapa city view from the Dragon Jaw Mountain (Ham Rong Mountain).

Full view of Sapa Lake from Dragon Jaw Mountain (Ham Rong Mountain).

The garden at Dragon Jaw Mountain (Ham Rong Mountain).

Chan Meng Fye at Dragon Jaw Mountain (Ham Rong Mountain).

Dragon Jaw Mountain (Ham Rong Mountain).

Chan Meng Fye at the Dragon Jaw (Ham Rong Mountain).

Chan Meng Fye at Dragon Jaw Mountain (Ham Rong Mountain).

The cultural show at Dragon Jaw Mountain (Ham Rong Mountain).

We attended Dragon Jaws Mountain cultural dance show where we participated in the dance.

Beautiful Hmong embroidery piece of art from Sapa.

Candlelight dinner in Sapa.

Day 17	Sapa			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
29.11.07	Breakfast at Hill View Rest.	Done	100,000	22.22
Thu	Rice ball cake	Done	10,000	2.22
	Luch at Pho at Sapa market	Done	100,000	22.22
	Dinner at Sapa	Done	124,000	27.56
	Taxi from Lao Cai train station to Sapa D25k x 5	Dong	125,000		27.78
	Tips for taxi driver	Dong	5,000		1.11
	Pinnochio Hotel @ US13 for 2 rooms	US	13			43.68

Day 18 (30.11.2007) 18km valley trek to Giang Ta Chai in Sapa

After breakfast we started from our Hotel and trek down to Lao Chai village (8km) to visit the Tay and Zday tribes and moving along the bottom of Sapa valley reaching Ta Van Village which is supposed to be the most beautiful in the area. We then proceed to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). We passed through bamboo forest, silver water fall and a rattan bridge. We had lunch on the way and got back to Sapa by van. Our guide is Ms. Zio a Red Mong hill tribe.

Trekking fee is US3 pp
Sleeping: Pinochio Hotel – US13 for 2 rooms

The foggy morning view from Pinochio Hotel in Sapa, North Vietnam.

The morning city view from Pinochio Hotel in Sapa, North Vietnam.

The morning street view from our Pinochio Hotel, Sapa, North Vietnam.

Ching Neng Bin at Pinochio Hotel, Sapa, North Vietnam.

Chew Leng Soon and Lim Kee Moon with our trekking guide Ms. Zio a Red Mong hill tribe at Pinochio Hotel, Sapa.

After breakfast we started from our Hotel and trek down to Lao Chai village (8km) to visit the Tay and Zday tribes and moving along the bottom of Sapa valley reaching Ta Van Village which is supposed to be the most beautiful in the area.

We trekked downhill through lush rice terrace Muong Hao valley towards Lao Chai village.

The Muong Hoa River, Sapa. Scenic valley known for its hiking paths through undulating rice terraces & traditional villages.

Scenic Muong Hoa valley known for its hiking paths through undulating rice terraces & traditional villages.

Scenic Muong Hoa view point for the marvelous panorama view of the mountain slopes.

Trekking Muong Hoa valley rice terraces & traditional villages.

A pig at Muong Hoa valley rice terraces & traditional villages.

Trekking Muong Hoa valley rice terraces & traditional villages.

A goat at Muong Hoa valley rice terraces & traditional villages.

Trekking Muong Hoa valley rice terraces & traditional villages.

A small beautiful lake on Muong Hoa River.

Trekking Muong Hoa valley rice terraces & traditional villages.

Trekking Muong Hoa valley rice terraces towards Lao Chai village.

A bridge over Muong Hoa river.

Trekking Muong Hoa valley rice terraces towards Lao Chai village.

A bridge over Muong Hoa river towards Lao Chai village.

Ching Neng Bin on the bridge over Muong Hoa river towards Lao Chai village.

A pig at Muong Hoa valley rice terraces & traditional villages.

A child at Muong Hoa valley rice terraces & traditional villages.

Trekking Muong Hoa valley rice terraces at Lao Chai village.

A buffalo at Lao Chai village.

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). We passed through bamboo forest, silver water fall and a rattan bridge.

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). We passed through rice terraces.

A pig on the trail to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people).

A child on the trail to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people).

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). We passed through rice terraces.

Ching Neng Bin on the trail to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). We passed through rice terraces.

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). We passed through rice terraces.

Ching Neng Bin on the trail to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). We passed through bamboo forest.

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). We passed through a rattan bridge.

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). Chan Meng Fye at the silver water fall.

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). Lim Kee Moon and Chan Meng Fye at the silver water fall.

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). We passed through silver water fall.

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people). We all at the silver water fall.

Chew Leng Soon with the Red Giao people.

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people).

Yew Thean Lye and son on the trai to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people).

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people).

A typical village house on the trail to Giang Ta Chai village.

A kitchen of a typical village house on the trail to Giang Ta Chai village.

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people).

Ching Neng Bin with two children on the trek to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people).

Lim Kee Moon with two children on the trek to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people).

Bernard Lee, Ching Neng Bin, Yew Thean Lye with two children on the trek to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people).

Bernard Lee, Chan Meng Fye, Yew Thean Lye with two children on the trek to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people).

Trekking to Giang Ta Chai village (Red Giao people).

We had lunch here in the village and got back to Sapa by van.

Ching Neng Bin with our trekking guide Ms.Zio a Red Mong tribe.

Another Red Mong trekking guide in Sapa.

Red Mong tribe girl on the trek in Sapa.

Another round of food in Sapa for Ching Neng Bin and Chan Meng Fye.

An evening walk in Sapa.

Day 18	Sapa			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
30.11.07	Breakfast	Dong	120,000	26.67
Fri	Congee - D20k x 5	Dong	100,000	22.22
	Dinner	Dong	129,000	28.67
	Pinnochio Hotel @ US13 for 2 rooms	US	13			43.68
	Tips for mountain guide Ms Zio	Dong	60,000				13.33
	Trekking fee US3 x 5	US	15				50.40

Day 19 (01.12.2007) trek to Cat Cat and Fansipan base camp

Mr. Yew and friends left us for their exploring trip to Hekou a Chinese border town. After breakfast at the market, we started trekking down to Cat Cat and Sin Chai village of black Hmong tribe. We passed through a beautiful Tien Sa waterfall and the scenery along the river leading to Fansipan Mountain 3,143m the highest in Indochina.

Lim Kee Moon and Ching Neng Bin continued up the mountain for 2.5 hrs till we reached the base-camp (2,350m). Here we met hunters and wood collectors. However, we had to trek back as we did not have enough time to reach the peak which is about another 800m up - maybe next time. We reached Pinnochio Hotel at about 7.30pm. Had very good candlelight dinner at Gerbera Restaurant. The temperature is about 10C very cold.

Sleeping: Pinochio Hotel – US13 for 2 rooms

Walking to Sapa Market for breakfast.

Cat Cat Village is 2km from Sapa Town. This is an age-old village of black Hmong ethnic group remaining unique customs and practices that are lots in other villages.

The closest village to Sapa is Cat Cat.

After breakfast at the market, we started trekking down to Cat Cat and Sin Chai village of black Hmong tribe.

Cat Cat village of black Hmong tribe.

Mountain view from Cat Cat village.

The closest village to Sapa, Cat Cat Village is a popular trekking destination to experience the distinctive culture and traditions of the Black Hmong tribe. Located in Vietnam’s Muong Hoa Valley, at the base of Fansipan Mountain, Cat Cat Village is also known for its stunning scenery of terraced fields, rolling hills, and waterfalls.

Cat Cat Village is a popular trekking destination to experience the distinctive culture and traditions of the Black Hmong tribe. Located in Vietnam’s Muong Hoa Valley, at the base of Fansipan Mountain, Cat Cat Village is also known for its stunning scenery of terraced fields, rolling hills, and waterfalls.

A lazy fat pig sleeping by the road side of Cat Cat village.

Sapa tribes make dye out of indigofera plants that are indigenous to Vietnam. The plants with their broad green leaves and barely purple flowers are scattered on the hillsides near the Hmong homes. They typically yield a crop twice a year.

Cat Cat Village is a popular trekking destination to experience the distinctive culture and traditions of the Black Hmong tribe.

The beauty of Tien Sa waterfall in Cat Cat.

The beauty of Tien Sa waterfall is made up of Hoang Lien Son and Suoi Tien ranges. Water flows from the Hoang Lien Son range down to create beautiful Tien Sa waterfall, the water will continue to flow along the stream to the Red River.

Walking the trek to Fansipan Mountain from Cat Cat village.

Walking the trek to Fansipan Mountain base-camp from Cat Cat village.

Lim Kee Moon and Ching Neng Bin continued up the mountain for 2.5 hrs till we reached the Fansipan Mountain base camp (2,350m). Here we met hunters and wood collectors. However, we had to trek back as we did not have enough time to reach the peak which is about another 800m up - maybe next time.

Lim Kee Moon and Ching Neng Bin arrived at Fansipan Mountain base-camp (2,350m).

The food kept by the woodcutters at Fansipan Mountain base-camp (2,350m).

The view of Fansipan Mountain.

Ching Neng Bin testing the woodcutter's old rifle gun at Fansipan Mountain base-camp.

Woodcutter's son at Fansipan Mountain base-camp.

Lim Kee Moon testing the old rifle gun at Fansipan Mountain base-camp.

The woodcutter's very old rifle gun at Fansipan Mountain base-camp.

The view of Sapa from Fansipan Mountain base-camp.

Trekking back as we did not have enough time to reach the peak which is about another 800m up.

We reached Pinnochio Hotel at about 7.30pm. Had very good candlelight dinner at Gerbera Restaurant. The temperature is about 10C very cold.

Had very good candlelight dinner at Gerbera Restaurant.

Sapa Love Market is now held regularly every Saturday in the square area in front of the stone church. Every 6-7 pm at Saturday night, visitors can visit the church area, the square to be able to participate in the activities of the famous Sapa love market.

Day 19	Sapa			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
01.12.07	Breakfast	Dong	125,000	27.78
Sat	Hot Pot Dinner - Gerbera Rest.	Dong	330,000	73.33
	Pinnochio Hotel @ US13 for 2 rooms	US	13			43.68
	Entrance fee for Cat Cat village - D10k x 5	Dong	50,000				11.11

Day 20 (02.12.2007) Sapa to BacHa and Lao Cai by van to Hanoi by night train

After morning breakfast at Royal Sapa Hotel, we took a van down to Lao Cai and leave our backpack at Friendly Travel office inside Friendly Café. The journey to Bac Ha market took about 3 hours up a mountain top. We got the tour from Royal Sapa Hotel at US9pp ending the tour at Lao Cai train station.

Bac Ha Market (Sunday only) is the meeting place of many different ethnic groups who comes here for exchange their handmade products as well as culture. It fills with many different hill tribe people. You will have the chance to enjoy it’s simple but unique kind of food with special wines made from rice, corn and fruits. We had lunch at Cong Fu café and later visited a Flower Mong village before going back to Lao Cai train station for the overnight train back to Hanoi.

Lao Cai, the end of the line so to speak, is right on the Vietnam-China border. The town was razed in the Chinese invasion of 1979, so most of its buildings are new. It is now a major destination for travelers journeying between Hanoi or Sapa and Kunming in China. We had hi-tea for dinner before meeting Me Yew and gang at the railway station.

Bac Ha Market tour fee – US9pp
Sleeping: Over-night train to Hanoi

After morning breakfast at Royal Sapa Hotel, we took a van down to Lao Cai and leave our backpack at Friendly Travel office inside Friendly Café. The journey to Bac Ha market took about 3 hours up a mountain top.

The journey to Bac Ha market took about 3 hours up a mountain top. We got the tour from Royal Sapa Hotel at US9pp.

Bắc Hà is a town in north-western Vietnam, on the border with the town of Hekou in Yunnan, China. The main reason to visit this town is its colorful Sunday market.

The main reason to visit Bắc Hà town is its colorful Sunday market.

Colorful costumes of the Flower Hmongs in Bac Ha.

Colorful costumes of the Flower Hmongs in Bac Ha sunday market.

The Bac Ha Sunday market (which is much larger than the Sa Pa market) is a big, colorful bazaar overflowing with everything under the sun.

The Bac Ha Sunday market is a big, colorful bazaar overflowing with everything under the sun.

Colorful handicrafts on sale at the Sunday Bac Ha market.

Shoe displayed on wooden tables in Bac Ha Sunday market.

Meat displayed on wooden tables in Bac Ha Sunday market.

Fish displayed on wooden tables in Bac Ha Sunday market.

Smokers at the Sunday Bac Ha market.

Two policemen at the Sunday Bac Ha market.

Colorful costumes of the Flower Hmongs in Bac Ha sunday market.

Visiting nearby village of Bac Ha town.

Visiting a family in nearby village of Bac Ha town.

A typical firewood cooking stove in nearby village of Bac Ha town.

Children in nearby village of Bac Ha town.

Children in nearby village of Bac Ha town. We had lunch at Cong Fu café and later visited a Flower Mong village before going back to Lao Cai train station for the overnight train back to Hanoi.

Lao Cai, the end of the line so to speak, is right on the Vietnam-China border.

The bridge from Hekou in China to Lao Cai in Vietnam. The bridge from Hekou in China to Lao Cai in Vietnam.

Sleeping: Over-night train at Ga Lao Chai to Hanoi.

Lim Kee Moon onboard the over-night train at Ga Lao Chai to Hanoi.

Chew Leng Soon onboard the over-night train at Ga Lao Chai to Hanoi.

Ching Neng Bin onboard the over-night train at Ga Lao Chai to Hanoi.

Bernard Lee onboard the over-night train at Ga Lao Chai to Hanoi.

Chan Meng Fye onboard the over-night train at Ga Lao Chai to Hanoi.

Day 20	Sapa to Bac Ha to Hanoi			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
02.12.07	Breakfast at Royal Sapa Hotel	Dong	86,000	19.11
Sun	Luch at Cong Fu Restaurant, Bac Ha village	Dong	110,000	24.44
	Hi Tea at Lao Cai Railway Station	Dong	120,000	26.67
	Congee	Dong	100,000	22.22
	Bac Ha Market Tour - US9 x 5	US	45				151.20

Day 21 (03.12.2007) Hanoi, Vietnam

Arrived Hanoi at 6 am and took a taxi to the Old Quarter. We check in at Prince 57 Hotel. The day was spent walking and exploring the Old Quarter. Hanoi’s Old Quarter, with more than a thousand years of history, remains one of Vietnam’s most lively and unusual places. Exploring the maze of back streets is fascinating; some streets open up while others narrow into alleys. We did some shopping and the best place to shop is Vietnamese Traditional Fine Art at No.37 Hang Be Street and later had expensive dinner at Sind Anh Chicken Restaurant.

Sleeping: Prince 57 Hotel – Us16 for 3 rooms

Exploring Hoan Kiem Lake @ Lake of the Returned Sword - is the most important lake in Hanoi. Located right at the centre of the city park, is associated with the legend of the restored sword, a "Vietnamese version" of Excalibur. The lake is so central to Hanoi and everything seems to revolve around it. Fitness-conscious Hanoi folks flood the banks of the lake every morning to perform their daily exercises. There was a legend about how the lake got its name. Originally, the lake was called Ta Vong Lake. The legend dates back to the early 15th century. The country (not yet Vietnam, let's call it the Ho Kingdom, after the Ho Dynasty that ruled it) was conquered by the Ming dynasty Chinese from 1407. Under the Chinese occupation, the Vietnamese suffered greatly. High taxes were imposed and the people hated their occupiers. One day, a fisherman called Le Tran caught a sword in his net. He passed the sword to the Vietnamese resistance leader, Le Loi. Using this sword, Le Loi fought the Chinese and liberated the country. He crowned himself as King Le Thai To and founded the Le Dynasty (1428-1776). One day, King Le Thai To was taking a boat on Ta Vong Lake. Suddenly a golden tortoise appeared. The tortoise demanded that King Le Thai To returned the magic sword. When King Le Thai To threw the sword into the lake, the tortoise grabbed it in its mouth and disappeared into the water with it. From then on, the lake was called Ho Hoan Kiem, or Lake of the Returned Sword. The lake is a good place for people watching, as this is where much of Hanoi comes out to play, to jog, to exercise and to romance. For a communist country, Hanoi is far more liberal, and it would not be rare to see couples holding hands and kissing.

Exploring Thap Rua @ Tortoise Tower - is a three-storey pagoda located in the middle of the lake was built in the 18th century, and is one of the most recognized landmarks in Hanoi.

Exploring Indira Gandhi Park - an open space on the east side of the lake. During the French colonial times, it was a popular venue for the colonial officers to hold events and outdoor concert. In 1984, the park was renamed in honor of the assassinated prime minister of India, Indira Gandhi, a keen supporter of Vietnam. Within the park is a huge statue of King Ly Thai To, the founder and first king of the Ly Dynasty. As with Ho Hoan Kiem, Indira Gandhi is often a busy meeting spot for the people of Hanoi, who come here to exercise, does "tai chi", play ball, dance, and generally relax.

Exploring Ly Thai To Statue - It stands on a prominent spot at Indira Gandhi Park. It is a memorial to the founder and first king of the Ly Dynasty. The Ly Dynasty reigned over the land that is now Vietnam for more than two hundred years, from 1009 to 1225AD. The dynasty was founded by one Ly Cong Uan, who changed his name to Ly Thai To when he ascended the throne. It was Ly Thai To who moved the capital to Thang Long, near present-day Hanoi, and this move resulted in the eventual founding of Hanoi as a city and present-day capital. Buddhism was the state religion during the Ly dynasty. The Ly monarchs founded over 150 monasteries around the Thang Long region. The Ly Dynasty came to an end in 1225 when a shrew commoner by the name of Tran Canh married the last queen of the Ly Dynasty and maneuvered his way to the throne, founding the Tran Dynasty in the process.

Exploring Buu Dien @ General Post Office - is housed in a lovely French colonial building in Hanoi. The GPO consists of the international post office facing Indira Gandhi Park, and the domestic post office facing the lake. It is located Dinh Tien Hoang Street, on the east side of the Lake of the Returned Sword. You can see it immediately after the Indira Gandhi Park.

Exploring Le Thai To Monument - not to be confused with Ly Thai To statue - is a memorial located along Le Thai To Street on the western bank. It was built to commemorate Le Thai To, the founder of the Le Dynasty, which ruled what is today Vietnam, from 1428-1776. He was a resistance leader who under his original name Le Loi, fought against the Chinese occupiers and managed to drive the Chinese forces out of Vietnam, and crowned himself as the new ruler, taking the title Le Thai To. Under his rule, the country was called Dai Viet.

Exploring Hoa Phuong, - a small standalone tower on the east bank of the lake. It marks the entrance of the former Bao An Pagoda complex which was demolished by the French in the 1890s when they reconstructed the city.

Ching Neng Bin visited the Public Bank Hanoi branch.

Exploring the Writing Brush Tower @ Thap But Pagoda - standing on small mound of stones, to the left of the entrance to Den Ngoc Son, the tower has five tiers. On the side of the tower are the words ta tien qing in Chinese, which translated means "written on the blue sky". There is what looks like an ink slab beside the tower. This is the Dai Nghien, a metaphorical take on an ink while the tower itself is supposed to resemble an ink brush.

The shrine at the entrance to Ngoc Son Temple a pagoda sitting in the centre on a small island.

Tiger wall painting at entrance door of Ngoc Son temple.

Wall painting at entrance door of Ngoc Son temple.

The Huc Bridge or Rising Sun Bridge at the entrance to the Ngoc Son Temple on Hoan Kiem Lake.

Exploring the Huc @ Sunbeam Bridge – is an arch bridge that crosses the lake to reach Ngoc Son temple. The Huc is one of the central landmarks of Hanoi.

Hoan Kiem Lake the Lake of the Returned Sword is located right at the centre of the city park, is associated with the legend of the restored sword, a "Vietnamese version" of Excalibur.

The Huc Bridge or Rising Sun Bridge at the entrance to the Ngoc Son Temple on Hoan Kiem Lake.

The entrance to the Ngoc Son Temple on Hoan Kiem Lake. The pagoda is also guarded by two towering posts decorated with Chinese writing.

Ngoc Son or Temple of the Jade Mound is a small temple sitting on a tiny islet in the middle of the lake Hoan Kiem. To reach Den Ngoc Son, you cross the Huc Bridge. Den Ngoc Son is open daily 8am-6pm, and there's admission charge. In the temple is a sculpture of the fabled tortoise that lends its legend to the surrounding Ho Hoan Kiem.

Ngoc Son or Temple of the Jade Mound is a small temple sitting on a tiny islet in the middle of the lake Hoan Kiem.

Chinese roof-figures of fish on the right side Ngoc Son Temple in Hanoi. They were positioned on the main ridge of temples and palaces, and were thought to provide protection against fire.

Chinese roof-figures of fish on the left side Ngoc Son Temple in Hanoi.

Ngoc Son or Temple of the Jade Mound is a small temple sitting on a tiny islet in the middle of the lake Hoan Kiem.

Ngoc Son temple, Hanoi.

A sacred giant turtle that died in Hanoi’s Hoàn Kiếm lake has been given a new lease on life by city authorities who have embalmed the beloved creature for posterity is now kept at Ngoc Son temple.

Ngoc Son temple, Hanoi.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre is a cultural experience that completes any visitor's trip to Hanoi. The puppet theatre is located at Dinh Tien Hoang Street, on the north end of the Lake Ho Hoan Kiem. The art of water puppetry came as the result of having too much free time. Developed by the rice farmers when the rice fields are flooded, water puppetry was a folk art that would have died with time twenty years ago, if not for a recent cultural revival that brought it back to life. The result not only resuscitated the art, it also provided an avenue to earn much needed hard cash for Vietnam's fledgling tourism industry.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre presenting theatrical water puppetry shows with accompanying music.

Eating Hoa Qua Dam (Mixed fruit dessert) in Hanoi.

Bernard Lee carrying fruits on a bamboo yoke or shoulder pole or a milkmaid's yoke.

Ching Neng Bin carrying fruits on a bamboo yoke or shoulder pole or a milkmaid's yoke.

Chinese dinner in Hanoi.

Day 21	Hanoi			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
03.12.07	Breakfast	Dong	60,000	13.33
Mon	Mango juice at Prince Hotel	Dong	75,000	16.67
	Lunch at Hang Voi	Dong	250,000	55.56
	Fuit cocktail	Dong	40,000	8.89
	Dinner at Sind avih Chicken Rest	Dong	440,000	97.78
	Taxi fare fr Ga Hanoi to Prince Hotel 57	Dong	60,000		13.33
	Prince 57 Hotel - for 2 rooms	US	16			53.76

Day 22 (04.12.2007) Hanoi – Perfume Pagoda and Perfume River tour

Perfume pagoda is 60km south-west of Hanoi. We first travel by van for 2 hours to the township of My Duc. Had a 20 minutes break half way to relax and experience Vietnamese handicraft products such as lacquer wares, paintings embroideries and etc. From My Duc we walked about 5-minute to the boat ramp. We then took the small metal boat rowed by women for 1.5 hour along the Yen stream to the foot of the mountain where we stopped at Trinhy temple at the landing jetty. The main pagoda is about 4km steep hike up from where the boat dropped us off. We took about 1 hour hike up the slippery trek before we reached inside Huong Tich cave. We then trek back and had lunch beside Thien Tru pagoda before boat ride back to the wharf returning to Hanoi. We reached Hanoi at 8pm.

Perfume Pagoda tour – US15pp
Sleeping: Prince 57 Hotel – Us16 for 3 rooms

We first travel by van for 2 hours to the township of My Duc. From here we walked about 5-minute to the boat ramp. We then took the small metal boat rowed by women for 1 1/2hour along the Yen stream to the foot of the mountain where we stopped at Trinhy temple at the landing jetty.

During the annual festival months, Ben Duc is packed with thousands of row boats used for shuttling visitors.

Yen stream flows between two mountains for 3 kilometers. Nevertheless, sitting on the boat, leisurely enjoying the surrounding landscape, you may feel that the stream is endless.

Beautiful water lilies in Yen stream.

Yen stream flows between two mountains for 3 kilometers. While traveling along Yen Stream, we passed by stunning landscape of jagged limestone mounts to the base of Huong Mountain.

Sitting on the boat leisurely enjoying the surrounding landscape, you may feel that the Yen stream is endless. Despite a road from Pier Duc to Perfume mountain, most people choose to use row boats on Yen Stream, which is by far a much more romantic and scenic route to Huong Pagoda.

Sitting on the boat leisurely enjoying the surrounding landscape, you may feel that the Yen stream is endless.

Chan Meng Fye and Ching Neng Bin sitting on the boat leisurely enjoying the surrounding landscape.

Bernard Lee and Chew Leng Soon sitting on the boat leisurely enjoying the surrounding landscape.

Sitting on the boat leisurely enjoying the surrounding landscape, you may feel that the Yen stream is endless.

After more than one hour along the Yen stream, we arrived at the landing jetty at Trinhy temple.

The Yen Stream water was so clear that you can see the beautiful water-weeds below.

After more than one hour along the Yen stream, we landed at Trinhy temple jetty.

The Huong Tich Grotto is about 4km steep hike up from where the boat dropped us off. We took about 1 hour hike up the slippery trek before we reached inside Huong Tich cave.

Giai Oan Pagoda is located on the mountain's slopes and on the left side on the road to Huong Tich cave. It was built on the Long Tuyen mountain by an old bonze named Thong Dung on the reign of Le Thuan Tong King in 1735.

It was about 4km steep hike up from where the boat dropped us off. We took about 1 hour hike up the slippery trek before we reached inside Huong Tich cave.

The 4km path to Huong Tich Grotto winds its way through magnificently luxuriant landscapes.

The cable car to Huong Tich Grotto.

The 4km path to Huong Tich Grotto winds its way through magnificently luxuriant landscapes.

The entrance path to Huong Tich Grotto.

In front of Huong Tich cave lie stone stairs. Stepping down the 120-step stairs, you will find the inscription “The first-ranking grotto under the Southern Sky” in Han scripts.

Stepping down the 120-step stairs to Huong Tich cave.

Huong Tich cave.

A 1.24m bronze bell, molded in the 3rd Thinh Duc Year (1655) in Huong Tich cave.

Huong Tich cave

Huong Tich cave.

The moss-grown Huong Tich Grotto came to life thanks to the most venerable Van Thuy Thien Tran Dao Vien Quang Chan Nhan, the Chief monk of Thien Tru Pagoda.

The statue of Avalokitesvara carved out of emerald stone on a rocky lotus constructed in 1793 under the Tay Son dynasty.

On our return walk back from Huong Tich Grotto we dropped by at Giai Oan Pagoda.

Cable car station.

At the gate of Thien Tru Pagoda.

Bell tower of Thien Tru Pagoda.

Chan Memg Fai at Thiên Trù Pagoda, central temple within the Perfume Pagoda complex.

Ching Neng Bin at Thiên Trù Pagoda, central temple within the Perfume Pagoda complex.

Bell tower of Thien Tru Pagoda - Ching Neng Bin, Bernard Lee, Chew Leng Soon, Lim Kee Moon and Chan Meng Fai.

Thiên Trù Pagoda, central temple within the Perfume Pagoda complex.

Bell tower of Thien Tru Pagoda.

Thiên Trù Pagoda, central temple within the Perfume Pagoda complex.

Taking the boat back to the jetty for our bus returning to Hanoi.

Taking the boat back from Thiên Trù Pagoda.

Day 22	Hanoi			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
04.12.07	Breakfast baguette	Dong	46,000	10.22
Tue	Dinner	Dong	170,000	37.78
	Furit cocktail at To Tich Street	Dong	35,000	7.78
	Prince 57 Hotel for 1 room	US	8			26.88
	Bao Long Hotel for 1 room	US	12			40.32
	Perfume River Pogoda Tour	US	73				245.28

Day 23 (05.12.2007) Hanoi

The day is shopping, shopping and more shopping. After 22 days away from Malaysia, we had the first bowl of Wan Tan Mee at 43, Cau Go Street. It was a fantastic dinner and all of us had two bowls.

Exploring Cot Co Flag Tower is one of the symbols of Hanoi. Built in 1812, Cot Co is a later addition to the Hanoi Citadel, which was built by Emperor Gia Long in 1805, with help from French engineers. Although the Hanoi Citadel covers one square kilometers, it is still much smaller than previous citadels built on the same site. The walls are 4.4 meters high & Flag Tower is 33.4 meters tall. It was built on the southern end of the citadel, much of which was destroyed towards the end of the 19th century. The Army Museum is next to it.

Exploring Bao Tang Quan Doi @ Army Museum - Vietnam's numerous battles to stay independent, and primarily documents the struggle for unification against French and American forces. It is located on Duong Dien Bien Phu Street on the west side of Hanoi. On the opposite side of the street from it is the statue of Lenin while next to it is the remains of the Hanoi Citadel with the Cot Co flag tower.

Statue of Lenin - Using the lake starting point, walk west along Hang Khay, this becomes Trang Thi after a while. Then you reach a split in the road; the right branch is Dien Bien Phu Street. Take that street, crossing the railway track and continuing on until you see the Army Museum on your right and the triangular park with the statue of Lenin on your left. Bao Tang Quan Doi is just behind the Army Museum.

Exploring the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum @ Lang Chu Tich Ho Chi Minh - is located on Hung Vuong Avenue, on the western part of Hanoi. Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum fronts Ba Dinh Square, a manicured patch of turf where Ho Chi Minh delivered Vietnam's declaration of independence in 1945. Despite his wish to be cremated, he was too revered to have that wish granted. So instead his remains were embalmed and kept in a glass casket where temperature and humidity is monitored. And there he stays, to be viewed by an unending stream of visitors. Admission is free. Sleeping: Prince 57 Hotel – Us16 for 3 rooms

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Day 23	Hanoi			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
05.12.07	Breakfast	Dong	125,000	27.78
Wed	Fruit cocktail	Dong	40,000	8.89
	Baguette	Dong	35,000	7.78
	Dinner - Wan Tan Mee at 43 Cau Go street	Dong	150,000	33.33
	Prince 57 Hotel for 1 room	US	8			26.88
	Bao Long Hotel for 1 room	US	12			40.32

Day 24 (06.12.2007) Hanoi - KLIA

This was the last day of our 24 days backpacking adventure and that was when we did our last minute shopping and last minute drinking, of course, beer Hoi. Visiting Ho Chi Minh stilt house, Hanoi.

After lunch we took taxi to Noi Bai International Airport which is 35km away for our 7pm flight AK763 to KL. Bernard took the Vietnam airlines shuttle bus to Airport for US2pp. There was an hour flight delay in Hanoi and we finally touchdown in KLIA almost midnight.

Taxi fare to airport – US9 per car
AirAsia – Hanoi to KLIA, one way US72 or RM237 pp

To reach Ho Chi Minh stilt house, you'll have to walk from the Presidential Palace visitors' entrance on Hung Vuong Street down a 300-foot-long path from the Presidential Palace, known as Mango Alley, which is lined with trees bearing the fruit that gives the path its name.

Ho Chi Minh's car.

Ho Chi Minh stilt house was constructed in a corner of the Presidential Palace's gardens, in front of a carp pond. It looks nothing more than a wooden house set on stilts, perhaps less weathered and better constructed than its traditional counterparts.

Ho Chi Minh stilt house - The path skirts round a sizeable pond on the grounds which is stocked with carp.

Ho Chi Minh stilt house - The empty space under the house was used by Ho as his office and receiving area. Foreign dignitaries and generals would visit Ho under his house and sit in simple wooden and bamboo chairs in the company of their leader. A rattan armchair in one corner was Ho's favored resting spot, where he would catch up on his reading.

Ho Chi Minh stilt house - The path skirts round a sizeable pond on the grounds which is stocked with carp.

This was the last day of our 24 days backpacking adventure and we had our last drinking of beer Hoi.

This was the last day of our 24 days backpacking adventure and that was when we did our last minute shopping and last minute drinking, of course, beer Hoi. After lunch we took taxi to Noi Bai International Airport which is 35km away for our 7pm flight AK763 to KL.

Day 24	Hanoi to KL			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
06.12.07	Breakfast	Dong	68,000	15.11
	Fruit juice	Dong	120,000	26.67
	Exercise book for account	Dong	3,500	0.78
	Lunch at Hang Voi rest.	Dong	144,800	32.18
	Taxi fare to Noi Boi airport, Hanoi	US	10		33.60
	Air Asia - Hanoi to KLCCT	US	360		1,209.00
	Bus from KLCCT to KL Central	RM			45.00
	Ho Chi Minh's House entrance fee	Dong	50,000				11.11

	24 days total Expenses			2,397.74	3,445.78	997.31	1,143.99	=	7,984.81
									divide by 5
		USD	RM	Real	KIP	VND	RM		1,596.96
		1	3.36	4000	10000	16000			per person
			1	10	2700	4500

Bernard Lee 016-2543318
Chan Meng Fye 016-2815989 email: fye2fly@yahoo.com
Lim Kee Moon 012-5065978 email:keemoon@gmail.com
Chew Leng Soon 012-2177366 email: portoon@yahoo.com
Ching Neng Bin 012-5053199 email: ching2662@yahoo.co.uk

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