2006 Backpacking to Thailand, Laos, China, Vietnam (30 days) 11 Oct to 09 Nov 2006

L-R: Mohanadas Nagappan, Ching Neng Bin, Balan, Chew Leng Soon, Tomoko, Bernard Lee, Chan Meng Fye at Yuantong Temple, Kunming

Day 1 (11.10.2006) KL > Chiang Mai > Chiang Rai

The adventure kicked off when my charming wife, Catherine Oon, sent me off at the Ipoh bus station for KL at 8pm on 10.10.06. My youngest son, Jin Wei, picked me up at Pudu station at 11 pm. 6am the next day, my son drove me to pick up Bernard Lee and Chan Meng Fye to meet the other team members; Balan & Chew Leng Soon. Balan’s brother drove us in his van to pick Mohan at his apartment in Bukit Jalil and straight to KLIA low cost carrier terminal.

We were on AirAsia flight No. AK 896 at 8.50am to Chiang Mai and after 2 hours we landed at Chiang Mai airport and proceed to Chiang Mai ancient city for lunch at Silom Joy Restaurant beside the Thapae Gate. After lunch we went to Arcade Bus station to catch the bus for Chiang Rai. While waiting for bus at the station, we went for foot massage nearby.

AirAsia – KLIA to Chiang Mai, one way is RM134 per person
Chiang Mai airport to town by tutu is B20 per person
Town to Arcade bus station by tutu is B20 per person
Bus to Chiang Rai is B140 per person
Chaluntorn House, Chiang Rai, opposite bus station - B200 a room for 2 pax

Map of 4 countries

We were on AirAsia flight No. AK 896 at 8.50am to Chiang Mai.

Balan had a good one hour sleep in the plane.

Chiang Mai ancient city for lunch at Silom Joy Restaurant beside the Thapae Gate.

After lunch we went to Arcade bus station to catch the bus for Chiang Rai. While waiting for bus at the station, Balan, Mohanadas, Chew Leng Soon went for foot massage nearby.

Mohanadas, Chan Meng Fye, Balan and Ching Neng Bin at the bus station to Chiang Rai

Dinner at Chiang Rai night market

				Food	Transport	Room	Visits
Day 1	KLCC to Chiang Rai			RM	RM	RM	RM
11.10.06	Lunch at Silom Joy, Chiang Mai	TB	380	38.00
	Dinner	TB	728	72.80
	Tuk2 fm town to Arcade bus station	TB	100		10.00
	Tuk2 fm airport to town - 20 x 6	TB	120		12.00
	Bus fm Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai - 140 x 6	TB	840		84.00
	Air Asia - KLIA to ChiangMai - 133.99 x 6	RM	804		803.94
	Chaluntorn Guest House - 200 x 3 rooms	TB	600			60.00

Day 2 (12.10.2006) Chiang Rai to Huay Xai in Laos

After breakfast we took the 8.30am bus from Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong a riverside border town arriving at 10.45am. We proceed to Thai immigration office beside the boat jetty by tutu and then crossed the Mekong River by boat to the Laos side of Huay Xai, a cowboy town.

Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong by bus - B57 per person
Chiang Khong to jetty by tutu - B20 pp (could easily walk)
Boat crossing to Huay Xai is B20 pp
Friendship Guest House, Huay Xai is B200 a room
Exchange: A bank at Laos’s immigration office. B1 = Kip260 1RM = Kip2,600 1US = Kip10,000

Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong by bus is B57 per person

Chiang Khong boat jetty

Chiang Khong immigration office.

Boat crossing from Chiang Khong to Huay Xai is B20 pp

Waiting for the missing bag. After passing through Huay Xai immigration office, Chew Leng Soon realized that he had left behind a bag of clothing in the boat meant for distribution. We waited for almost 30 minutes before the bag was returned to us by the same boat-man on his return trip.

Huay Xai for centuries was a disembarkation point for Yunnan caravans led by the Hui (Chinese Muslims) on their way to Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai in ancient Siam; today Chinese barges from Yunnan are able to navigate this far, so there is still a brisk trade in Chinese goods.

Thailand’s Chiang Khong on the opposite river bank is also a significant source of trade. For most ferry arrivals from Chiang Khong, Huay Xai is just a stopover before boarding a boat southeast to Pak Beng or Luang Prabang, or northeast to Luang Namtha.

Lunch at Huay Xai river side restaurant.

BBQ dinner in Huay Xai. Ching Neng Bin and Balan with the proprietress of the restaurant.

Evening was a special steam-boat dinner at Saiyaponthlao Food Restaurant in Huay Xai with a bottle of whiskey bought by Mohanadas earlier.

Here we met Ms Lanna an American lady who is currently teaching English to adults in Laos for the past 4 years.

Evening was a special steam-boat dinner at Saiyaponthlao Food Restaurant in Huay Xai with a bottle of whiskey bought by Mohanadas earlier. Here we met Ms Lanna an American lady who is currently teaching English to adults in Laos for the past 4 years. We enjoyed the company of Ms Lanna, the good food and talked until 12 midnight. When we got back to the guest-house, the door was locked. Luckily with the help of other guest-house people, they called the house-keeper with their mobile phone. Lesson number one, do not stay late.

Day 2	Chiang Rai to Huay Xai			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
12.10.06	Lunch	TB	780	78.00
	Dinner - steam boat	TB	1,184	118.40
	Tuk2 to Bank	TB	80		8.00
	Tuk2 to jetty - 20 x 6	TB	120		12.00
	Boat to Huay Xai - 20 x 6	TB	120		12.00
	Bus fm Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong - 57 x 6	TB	342		34.20
	Friendship G.H - 200 x 3	TB	600			60.00

Day 3 (13.10.2006) Huay Xai to Luang Namtha in Laos

We had breakfast with Ms Lanna and handed her the bag of clothing for distribution to poor children around Huay Xai. We then proceed to the Huay Xai bus station by van arranged by an agent whom we booked the bus ticket the day before. We departed at 10.30am and arrived at Luang Namtha at 12 midnight. Dinner was at 12.40am after checking in to a guest-house.

The road from Huay Xai to Luang Namtha on route 3 is a 14 hours bus journey through muddy hell. Its all mud & mud and smell and taste of mud every where, whether it is inside or outside the bus. Normal time taken is about 7 hours, but we took 14 hours. It’s a long and winding muddy road through several different kinds of terrain, from river plain to high mountains of northern Laos.

The road conditions vary accordingly from flat, graded passages to rutted, winding tracks. The very old bus ride was painful as it did not have proper seats. It had no suspension and was rocking like cradle on a slightest bump. We were stuck in muddy road countless times, and there were two occasions when we were stuck for hours whereby we as passengers were required to get down and helped to repair the road and to push the bus.

No dinner for all, but we distributed chocolates and biscuits to the hungry children in the bus. I also gave away some clothing that I brought along. Credit goes to the hell driver and his assistants for the save journey and risk taken.

Bus – Huay Xai to Luang Namttha is Kip65,000 pp (RM25). However, we paid Kip104,000 to the agent instead of Kip65,000 at the bus station. We were overcharged by RM15 per person. (Do not buy bus ticket from travel agent)
Sleeping: Charuensin Guesthouse, Luang Namtha is Kip30,000 a room (RM12)

We had breakfast with Ms Lanna and handed her the bag of clothing for distribution to poor children around Huay Xai.

We then proceed to the Huay Xai bus station by van arranged by an agent whom we booked the bus ticket the day before for Luang Namttha.

Its all mud & mud and smell and taste of mud every where, whether it is inside or outside the bus.

The bus broken seats. The very old bus ride was painful as it did not have proper seats. It had no suspension and was rocking like cradle on a slightest bump.

The bus had a punctured tyre in the morning on the road to Luang Namttha.

The bus had a punctured tyre in the morning on the road to Luang Namttha.

It’s a long and winding muddy road through several different kinds of terrain, from river plain to high mountains of northern Laos.

It’s a long and winding muddy road through several different kinds of terrain, from river plain to high mountains of northern Laos.

We were stuck in muddy road countless times, and there were two occasions when we were stuck for hours whereby we as passengers were required to get down and helped to repair the road and to push the bus on the road to Luang Namttha.

Wild pig passing by on the road to Luang Namttha.

Lunch break at a village on the road to Luang Namttha.

The children on the road to Luang Namttha.

We came across a broken down bus along the way coming from Luang Namttha.

Ching Neng Bin and Balan on the road to Luang Namttha.

Another big problem was when we were unable to proceed because of on-coming vehicles blocking the road. It was 10pm, and luckily a land-mover or excavator nearby was called to widen the road for the on-coming vehicle to pass through on the road to Luang Namttha.

The road from Huay Xai to Luang Namtha on route 3 is a 14 hours bus journey through muddy hell. Normal time taken is about 7 hours, but we took 14 hours. No dinner for all, but we distributed chocolates and biscuits to the hungry children in the bus. I also gave away some clothing that I brought along. Credit goes to the hell driver and his assistants for the save journey and risk taken.

Day 3	Huay Xai to Luang Namtha			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
13.10.06	Breakfast	TB	369	36.90
	Lunch	TB	288	28.80
	Dinner	TB	461	46.10
	Bus fm Huay Xai to Luang Namtha - 400 x 6	TB	2,400		240.00
	Charuensin G.H - 115 x 3	TB	346			34.60

Day 4 (14.10.2006) Luang Namtha to Jinghong, China

Getting there we traveled from Luang Namtha to Bortene a Laos border town, then to Mohan a Yunnan border town, Mengla before reaching Jinghong. The road was much better, however, there were many landslides and road-work in progress. Villages and farm-land doted along the road.

After breakfast at the bus-station, we departed Luang Namtha for Mengla at 9am. Here we met a Japanese backpacker, Ms Tomoko, and she accompanied us all the way to Kunming. We also make friend with two other Thai backpackers.

Luang Namtha to Mengla by bus is Kip45,000 pp (RM17)
Mengla to Jinghong by bus is Y33 pp (RM15)
Lu Yuan Guest House, Jinghong, is Y35 a room (RM16) Recommended is BanNa Hotel for same rate
Exchange: RM1 = Y2.2 US1 = Y8

On the road to Jinghong, our van had to stop for break as the engine got heated up.

The rice field on the road to Jinghong

Immigration office at Mohan a Chinese border town in Yunnan.

By 10.30am we arrived at Bortene for Laos immigration clearance. A short drive away we reached the Yunnan immigration office at Mohan. We were delayed here for 3 hours waiting for our visa status clearance by Chinese immigration officers. This remote Chinese immigration office is not online and unable to verify our visa issued in KL. They have to fax our visa to KL for confirmation. The other big problem was Mohan’s passport had a rubber-stamp ink smeared on the photograph hence looks like tempered passport. Chew Leng Soon had a hard time explaining our trip in respect of our relationship and traveling purpose to the Officers. I suppose they have not seen an Indian from Malaysia passing through this remote border post - big shit! Mohan has big problem at the Chinese town of Mohan!

A one hour delay on the road due to land slide at Xishuangbanna National Park.

We finally reached Mengla at 3pm for lunch, and departed at 3.30pm for Jinghong. Arriving Jinghong at 9.30pm and had BBQ dinner by the Lancang River with Ms Tomoko and 2 Thai backpackers. We had very cheap and good body massage by the Lancang River Bridge under thousand stars. We went home at 1.30am

Day 4	Luang Namtha to Jinghong			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
14.10.06	Breakfast	KIP	193,000	71.48
	Tips for van driver to bus station	RMB	10		5.00
	Bus fm Mengla to Jinghong - 33 x 6	RMB	198		99.00
	Bus fm Luang Namtha to Mengla - 45000 x 6	KIP	270,000		100.00
	Lu Yuan Guess House - 35 x 3 rooms	RMB	105			52.50

Day 5 (15.10.2006) Jinghong

After breakfast we explore the city and made friends with the local folks for information. Good food at Mei Mei Cafe along Manting Road. We met a girl along the road who had been very helpful and even called her tour operator girl-friend to assist us to get tickets for a Cultural show in the evening and also to arrange a tour to Mengla Cultural Garden the following day. The city market is a very busy place. We bought a few interesting items there at fair prices. Afternoon was spent walking around the Burmese Shopping Village. We had medicated back rub by old lady by the road-side. Evening was the Cultural Show followed by discotheque for drinks.

Jinghong cultural show – Y160pp
Lu Yuan Guesthouse is Y35 a room (RM16)

Jinghong in the southwest of China and at the southern most tip of Yunnan Province, has mysterious land known as Xishuangbanan. In the Dai language, "xishuang" is "twelve" and "banna" is "one thousand pieces of land", thus "Xishuangbanna" can be directly translated into "twelve thousand pieces of land".

As a matter of fact, it refers to the twelve regions that are under its administration. With Myanmar to the southwest and Laos to the southeast, Xishuangbanna has a boundary line of 1,069 kilometers. Covering an area of 19,700 sq km, Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture is composed of one municipality and two counties.

The highest point in the region is 2,429 meters above sea level whereas the lowest is only 477 meters. Dominated by a tropical rain forest climate, the average temperature is 21°C. The capital of Xishuangbanna is "Jinghong", which means "the City of Dawn" in the Dai language. It is 692 km from Kunming. There are more than ten nationalities including the Dai, the Hani, the Jinuo and the Bulang, etc in its land. There live over 5,000 species of plants and hundreds kinds of rare and valuable birds and animals in its 20,000 square kilometers tropical virgin forest, thus Xishuangbanna is noted as "the Kingdom of Plants and Animals" . The Dai people are good at singing and dancing and believe in Buddhism. The Water-Splashing Festival, namely the New Year's Day by the Dai calendar will be celebrated every year in the 6th month of Dai calendar on April 13 - 15.

Mohanadas had a good medicated back-rub by an old lady in Jinghong road side.

Ching Neng Bin had a good medicated back-rub by an old lady in Jinghong road side.

Bernard Lee had a good medicated back-rub by an old lady in Jinghong road side.

Good lunch at Mei Mei Cafe along Manting Road in Jinghong.

There are a couple of markets in Jinghong. One is a whole street a few blocks north of the Banna Hotel off the same road. It has lots of stalls with jaded looking Burmese men desperate for a sale. Balan bought some stones and a cowboy hat.

Balan with the dancers. Jinghong Cultural Show at Y160 pp.

Ching Neng Bin dancing with the dancers at Jinghong Cultural Show.

Ching Neng Bin dancing with the dancers at Jinghong Cultural Show.

Jinghong Ethnic Culture Dance is diverse and colorful. It is a place where multi-ethnic groups inhabit. Different nationalities create different cultures. Jinghong city offers amazing Dai culture, temple culture, cultures of ethnic festivals, etc.

Jinghong Ethnic Culture Dance is diverse and colorful.

Jinghong Ethnic Culture Dance is diverse and colorful.

Jinghong Ethnic Culture Dance is diverse and colorful.

Jinghong Ethnic Culture Dance is diverse and colorful.

Day 5	Jinghong			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
15.10.06	Breakfast - noodles	RMB	10	5.00
	Apples	RMB	10	5.00
	Lunch	RMB	60	30.00
	Dinner	RMB	60	30.00
	Lu Yuan Guess House - 35 x 3 rooms	RMB	105			52.50
	Visit Jinghong cultural show - 160 x 6	RMB	960				480.00

Day 6 (16.10.2006) Jinghong to Kunming

In the morning, we visited the Mengla Cultural Park, which was situated on an island along the Lancang River. We had to get to the island by cable-car across the river. It’s a guided tour visiting a museum, hill-tribes performing dangerous act, dances and songs and the many caged animals. We spent about 2 hours before returning back. The overnight bus journey to Kunming was at 8.20pm.

Sleeping: Overnight bus journey to Kunming
Jinghong to Kunming by bus is Y188pp (RM84)

Our girlfriends as tour guide. In the morning, we visited the Mengla Cultural Garden, which was situated on Gourd Island along the Lancang River. We had to get to the island by cable-car across the river.

Lancang (Mekong) River has 1187km long stretch flowing through Xishuangbanna. At the moment, the Lancang River Tour is divided into two sections. The upper section is 135 kilometers long, from Jinghong to Simao; the lower section is 40km in length, from Jinghong to Olive Basin. The lower section attracts more tourists at present. Visitors will be enchanted by the tropical rain forest and animals along the two banks of the river. The Jinuo people, residing in the Jinuo Mountains on the west of the river bank 43km from Jinghong city, have in the last forty years adapted totally from a primitive to a modern way of life - a truly amazing story.

Cable-car across the Lancang (Mekong) River to visit the Mengla Cultural Park on Gourd Island in Jinghong.

Mengla Cultural Garden mini zoo. L-R: Bernard Lee, Chew Leng Soon, Chan Meng Fye, guide, Balan, Ching Neng Bin

The white snub-nosed monkey also known as the Yunnan snub-nosed monkey.

Mengla Cultural Garden mini zoo in Jinghong.

Monkey show performance at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

Mohanadas drinking the holy water at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

Sugar-cane mill at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

Cultural performers climbing up the knife ladder at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

Cultural performer licking a red hot plate at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

Cultural performers jumping on broken glass at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

Cultural performers jumping on nails at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

Cultural performers doing Fire Dance at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

We had a group photo with the cultural performers at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

Another group photo with the cultural performers at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

Mohanadas and Ching Neng Bin at the Karen Paduang Long Neck Girls of Yunnan Province.

We were all practicing the local cultural dancing at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

We were all practicing the local cultural bamboo dancing at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

Another group photo with the cultural performers at Mengla Cultural Park in Jinghong.

Overnight bus journey from Jinghong to Kunming is Y188pp (RM84)

Day 6	Jinghong			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
16.10.06	Lunch	RMB	51	25.50
	Dinner at Mei Mei Restaurant	RMB	79	39.50
	2 taxi to Jinghong bus station	RMB	10		5.00
	Bus fm Jinghong to Kunming - 188 x 6	RMB	1,128		564.00
	Lu Yuan GH - use of room before bus trip	RMB	20			10.00
	Tips for park guide	RMB	20				10.00
	Fee for 2 lady city guide - 50 x 2	RMB	100				50.00
	2 taxi to Mengle cultural park (return)	RMB	100				50.00
	Visit Mengle cultural park - cable car 150 x 6	RMB	900				450.00

Day 7 (17.10.2006) Kunming City

Arrived Kunming by bus at 6.30am and took a taxi to Camellia Hotel. Morning was spent walking around the city and visiting city temples. Went to train station to check for ticket to Vietnam but services have since suspended. In ancient times Kunming was an important gateway to the celebrated Silk Road which conducted to Tibet, Sichuan, Myanmar and India.

The city’s highland scenery is interesting; its karsts landforms is bewitching. Its people are known for their varied and exotic habits and customs, and its land is pockmarked with historical artifacts, places of cultural interest, and gardens landscaped with a picturesque taste. Among the major scenic spots of Kunming are the Dianchi Lake, the Cuihu Lake, the Village of Ethnic Culture, the Jindian (Golden Temple) Park, the Western Mountain Forest Reserve, the Stone Forest, the Jiuxiang Scenic Belt, the Yuantong Mountain, the Grand View Pavilion, and the Qiongzhu Temple.

Sleeping: Camellia Hotel – Dormitory is Y30 per bed

Welcome to Kunming the capital of Yunnan

Kunming enjoys great fame among tourists not only because the region features a consistently warm climate, but also thanks to its wonderful landscapes. Among the most dramatic of these attractions is the Stone Forest (Shilin) as the 'First Wonder of the World.' It is situated in central Yunnan and north of the Dianchi Basin, is skirted on three sides by mountains, with one side opening onto the Dianchi Lake. Kunming is also a renowned historical and cultural city in southwest China.

Balan and Ching Neng Bin in Kunming City.

Noodles for lunch in Kunming.

Yuantong Temple is the most famous Buddhist temple in Kunming. It was first built in the late 8th century, the time of the Nanzhao Kingdom in the Tang Dynasty. After two major restorations in the Chenghua period1465-1487）of the Ming Dynasty and the 24th year of Emperor Kangxi's rule (1686) of the Qing Dynasty, the temple took on its present design, with covered corridors, bridges and grand halls. This old Temple is noted for its unusual structure which is high at the front and low at the back, from the front archway named "Yuantong Shengjing" (Wonderland), one can behold the entire garden. To the north is the splendid Yuantong main hall. At both sides of the hall are covered corridors running beside pools. The main hall maintains the style of the Yuan Dynasty architecture. Circling the two central pillars inside the hall are two giant dragons carved during the Ming Dynasty. The blue and yellow dragons face each other, as if they are ready to fight.

Yuantong Temple is the most famous Buddhist temple in Kunming.

Kunming railway station,

Kunming City

Kunming City ear picks.

Kunming City

Day 7	Jinghong to Kunming			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
17.10.06	Nescafe & toilet paper	RMB	18	9.00
	Snacks - buns	RMB	37	18.50
	Breakfast - bread	RMB	40	20.00
	Breakfast	RMB	51	25.50
	Dinner at Jian Xin Yuan Restaurant	RMB	100	50.00
	Bus to North rail station	RMB	6		3.00
	Bus to Kunming station	RMB	6		3.00
	2 taxi fm Kunming bus station to Camellia GH	RMB	35		17.50
	Camellia Hotel - 30 x 6	RMB	180			90.00
	Visit Yuantong Temple - 4 x 6	RMB	24				12.00

Day 8 (18.10.2006) Kunming Stone Forest and Jiuxiang scenic spot

We made our own breakfast at Camellia Hotel – bread & coffee. At 9am we took a van from the hotel heading for The Stone Forest (entrance is Y140 or RM63). We had the most expensive lunch at the Stone Forest restaurant - a cup of coffee cost RM10 - so never drink here. After lunch we went to Jiuxiang scenic spot - entrance Y90. It was 96km to the southeast of Kunming City. The scenic area measuring 172 sq km has been listed as a national level key scenic resort of China. It has a river and underground caves.

We then rush back for the Grand Primitive Song & Dance Medley – entrance is Y120.

Van to Stone Forest – Y70pp
Additional van charges to Jiuxiang Cave – Y15pp Dynamic
Yunan cultural show – Y120pp Sleeping:
Camellia Hotel – Dormitory is Y30 per bed

Entrance to the Stone Forest located in Shilin County, 85km southeast of Kunming.

The STONE FOREST is known as "One of Earth's Natural Wonders". It is located in Shilin County, 85km southeast of Kunming. Covering a few hundred sq. km, stone peaks rise abruptly from the ground in numerous layers like bamboo shoots, forests and pagodas. If you climb to the top of one of the peaks, you can behold thousands of peaks and valleys just like a marvelous vast black forest. The roads wind around between the peaks, taking visitors to ever more unexpected and beautiful scenes. Researches by Chinese and overseas geologists have proved that the Stone Forest is over 270 million years old. The area used to be an ocean. During the Long Geological Period from the late Permian Period 230million years ago to 2 million years ago, the ocean subsided and giant rocks appeared. During this time the rocks were gradually worn away by water, forming the strange rock forms seem today. Wandering in the Stone Forest is a unique experience .The stone mountains form strange shapes, the peaks are like poems and pictures, like the vertical "Lotus Peak," the majestic "Rhinoceros Admiring the Moon" and the graceful "Pavilion Observing the Peaks". The layers of mountains seem to be pressing forward; the curious shaped rocks excite people's imagination. In the depth of the Stone Forest, numerous lakes are like bright mirrors reflecting the rocks and peaks.

As soon as one enters the Stone Forest scenic area, a crystal-clear lake comes into focus. By the east lakeside, rise from the water a good array of fantastic stone pinnacles, pillars, shoots, and stalactites, resembling natural potted scenery.

A few hundred steps beyond the lake, there is a pool with a huge boulder in the shape of a squatting lion. Hence it's given the name of "Lion Pool".

The Stone Forest scenic area.

Mohanadas and Balan dressed up as tribal chief at The Stone Forest scenic area.

The Stone Forest scenic area.

Walking through the Stone Forest, we can still find traces of the Neolithic Age. This is a beautiful place combining the spirit of the ethnic minorities and natural scenery. Close to the Stone Forest are other scenic spots such as the Black Stone Forest, the Dadieshui Waterfall, the Changhu Lake (Long Lake), and the Ziyundong (Purple Clouds) Cave. Lakes, mountains, caves and rocks add more charm to the Stone Forest area. Every year, on the 24th day of the 6th lunar month, the Yi people celebrate their Torch Festival. Traditional activities including wrestling and bull fighting, and joyous singing and dancing always last throughout the whole night.

The Stone Forest scenic area.

Jiuxiang (nine villages) Scenic Region is located in Jiuxiang Yi and Hui Autonomous Township of Yiliang County 96 km away from Kunming. In Yunnan Province it is a well-equipped comprehensive scenic region which is famous for its caves, mountains, rivers, deep valleys, minority customs and cultures. It consists of 5 major scenic spots: Diehong Bridge, the Sanjiao Cave, the Dasha Dam, the Alulong and the Mingyue Lake. Among them, the most outstanding and beautiful is Diehong Bridge Scenic Spot whose construction has already been finished and is now open to the public. Diehong Bridge Scenic Spot is located in the southeast of Jiuxiang Street which is 5 km away. It includes six major scenic spots: the Green Shady Valley, the White Elephant Cave, the Goddess Cave, the Lying Dragon Cave, the Bat Cave and the Tourist Cableway. The whole journey is about four kilometers long and the time needed is three hours.

Jiuxiang (nine villages) Scenic Region is located in Jiuxiang Yi and Hui Autonomous Township of Yiliang County 96km away from Kunming.

Deep valley to the river below of Jiuxiang (nine villages) Scenic Region.

To the river of Jiuxiang (nine villages) Scenic Region.

The river boating of Jiuxiang (nine villages) Scenic Region.

The river water-gate of Jiuxiang (nine villages) Scenic Region.

The under ground river of Jiuxiang (nine villages) Scenic Region.

Jiuxiang Scenic Area — Museum of Karst Caves

Two waterfalls side by side at Jiuxiang Scenic Area — Museum of Karst Caves

Cascading pool at Jiuxiang Scenic Area — Museum of Karst Caves

Grand Primitive Song & Dance Medley – entrance is Y120pp

Grand Primitive Song & Dance Medley. I love the dancing and singing of these ethnic indigenous people. More than 70% of the performers are local peasant farmers from outlying villages of Yunnan and most of them are from ethnic groups including Yi, Miao, Tibetan, Dai, Bai, Va and Hani.

A group photo taken with some dancers of Grand Primitive Song & Dance group.

Day 8	Kunming			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
18.10.06	Bread & titbits before cultural show	RMB	30	15.00
	Supper at Cha Ma Bar, Camellia Hotel	RMB	82	41.00
	Expensive lunch at Stone forest restaurant	RMB	220	110.00
	Camellia Hotel - 30 x 6	RMB	180			90.00
	Map of Stone forest	RMB	4				2.00
	Tips for driver	RMB	10				5.00
	Van to Jiuxiang Cave - 15 x 6	RMB	90				45.00
	Jiuxiang Cave cable car - 15 x 6	RMB	90				45.00
	Transport to Stone forest - 70 x 6	RMB	420				210.00
	Jiuxiang Cave entrance fee - 90 x 6	RMB	540				270.00
	Dynamic Yunnan Cultural show - 120 x 6	RMB	720				360.00
	Stone forest entrance fee - 140 x 6	RMB	840				420.00

Day 9 (19.10.2006) Kunming

This day is light & easy. It’s just walking around the city near the Hump shopping centre. We had very good dinner at Mamafu’s Noodles restaurant. I bought 2 day-pack “One Polar” brand for Y95 each at one of the supermarket beside Camellia.

Sleeping: Camellia Hotel – Dormitory is Y30 per bed

Visited Luolong Park lake garden with elderly musician entertaining us in Kunming.

The Luolong Park is built in the 383,400 sq km, the water area is about 133,200 sq km. It is the biggest park in Chenggong New Area. The design of the project focuses on water landscape, fully conbines the features of the Luolong River and its water logged zone. Hills and water, nature and humanity are melted together, so tourist resources are various and have many functions. It is called “New Green Lake” by visitors. In summer, lotuses are in full bloom during the day and are close at night. So it is a good place for recreation and entertainment.

There are many people rambling and dancing here every night and taking exercise every morning at Luolong Park in Kunming.

There are big and small squares, pavilions, corridors and observation decks at Luolong Park in Kunming.

There are big and small squares, pavilions, corridors and observation decks at Luolong Park in Kunming.

There are big and small squares, pavilions, corridors and observation decks at Luolong Park in Kunming.

There are big and small squares, pavilions, corridors and observation decks at Luolong Park in Kunming.

There are big and small squares, pavilions, corridors and observation decks at Luolong Park in Kunming.

Day 9	Kunming			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
19.10.06	Breakfast at Ma Ma Fu	RMB	70	35.00
	Camellia Hotel - 30 x 5	RMB	150			75.00

Day 10 (20.10.2006) Kunming > Hekou a southern border to Vietnam

We went shopping again in the morning and had very good lunch & dinner at Mamafu’s Noodles restaurant. I bought 2 all-dry pants and a shirt. Check-out of hotel and placed our backpack at their store-room. The overnight bus to Hekou was at 7.45pm.

Kunming to Hekou by bus is Y109pp
Sleeping - Overnight bus journey to Hekou

Checking out of Camellia Hotel in Kunming.

Day 10	Kunming			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
20.10.06	Snacks for bus ride	RMB	33	16.50
	Breakfast at Ma Ma Fu	RMB	90	45.00
	Dinner at Ma Ma Fu	RMB	90	45.00
	2 taxi to Kunming bus station	RMB	24		12.00
	Bus fm Kunming to Kekou - 109 x 6	RMB	654		327.00
	Baggage storage at Camellia Hotel	RMB	3			1.50

Day 11 (21.10.2006) Hekou China > Lao Cai > Sapa, Vietnam

We arrived at Hekou at 8.45am after 13 hours of overnight bus journey. We then walked towards the Chinese immigration office. Again Mohanadas had problem clearing his passport. The smeared rubber stamp ink is the problem; however, it was cleared after some checking by the officers. Balan bought a bottle of whisky at the duty free shop for Deepavali celebration in Sapa.

We crossed the Red River bridge at 9.45am sharp into Lao Cai, Vietnam and walked towards the Vietnamese Immigration office. Chew Leng Soon and I were delayed 40 minutes here due to run-out of forms and they have to send people to collect from another office. We then took a tramp to the railway station to check for tickets to Ha Noi. At the railway station we took a van to Sapa with 17 passengers instead of 12. We celebrated Deepavali with good food and whisky at one of the recommended restaurant - Happy Deepavali To Mohan and Balan.

Hekou to Sapa by van is D20000pp
Hill Tribe GH is US7 a room for 2
Exchange: RM1 = Dong4,000 US1 = Dong16,000

We crossed the Red River bridge at 9.45am sharp into Lao Cai, Vietnam and walked towards the Vietnamese Immigration office.

Chinese traders crossing the Red River bridge into Vietnam.

Red Hmong tribe in Sapa. Ethnic minorities in Vietnam are mostly hill tribes residing at high altitudes in the mountains. In particular, the Sapa area in the northwest of Vietnam, near the border with China, is a center of Vietnamese tribal culture.

Ethnic minorities in Vietnam are mostly hill tribes residing at high altitudes in the mountains. In particular, the Sapa area in the northwest of Vietnam, near the border with China, is a center of Vietnamese tribal culture.

The small town of Sapa has only about 1000 people. But nevertheless, 52% of the population of the district is H’mong ethnic minority, 25% are Red Dao tribe, 5% are Tay tribe, 2% are Giay tribe and some minor percentages are Muong tribe, Thai tribe, Hoa tribe, and Xa Pho tribe.

Sapa gecko herbal wine in bottles.

Sapa scorpion and snake herbal wine in bottles.

Chan Meng Fye and Ching Neng Bin talking to the H’mong ethnic minority.

Equally important, the Sapa area is one of the best, if not the best trekking destination in Vietnam. Popular trails in Sapa in Vietnam will take you through Sapa’s terraced rice paddies, valleys, hills and to the highest mountain in Vietnam – Fansipan.

Wishing a Happy Deepavali to Mohanadas and Balan in Sapa Vietnam.

One of the most famous and attractive night market that should not be ignored when visiting Sapa is the Sapa Love Market held in every Saturday night. The name Love Market is for trading: buying and selling. But no one there buys love or sells it.

Day 11	Kunming to Sapa			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
21.10.06	Coffee near lake	VND	60,000	15.00
	Lunch at Chapa Restaurant	VND	153,000	38.25
	Dinner	VND	500,000	125.00
	Van fm Hekou Border to Lao Cai Rail station	VND	40,000		10.00
	Van-Lao Cai Rail station to Sapa - 20,000x6	VND	120,000		30.00
	Hotel Hill Tribe - US7 x 3 rooms	VND	272,000			68.00
	Trekking fee - US7 x 6 (US42)	VND	672,000				168.00

Day 12 (22.10.2006) Sapa, Vietnam

After breakfast, we went for a 5 hour guided trek through the valley visiting the Hmong villages along the way. We started by walking from Sapa town towards the Muong Hao valley – one of the most beautiful valley in Vietnam where we can admire a magnificent scenery. About 1km from the road, we turn right to get the trail leading into the Muong Hao valley. We trekked downhill through lush rice terrace to Lao Chai two villages of Black Hmong tribe. Lunch was provided by stopping at one of the rest-house run by the Dao tribe. The guide prepared delicious lunch while we had beer. We experienced the daily life of the tribes and talked to friendly people.

After lunch at Lao Chai village, we trekked through Ta Van village and noticed that there were home-stay for those who wish to stay with the tribal families.

In total we trekked for about 14km up and down the hills crossing a beautiful river before ending the trek on the main road. A van came to pick us up heading for our guest-house while Bernard Lee would walk back preparing for his Nepal trip. In town our guide, Mr. Son took us for another mutton lunch.

SAPA - Setting blissfully at the elevation of 1,650 meters on the Hoang Lien Son mountain range. Sapa is the hill station built in 1922 and a fine resort town in the northwest of Vietnam. Besides the fertile terraced paddy fields and hill tribal villages, it is home to the fog-swirled Fansipan peak, the highest in the country. The town has the temperate climate zone with the coldest months from January to February; the excellent summer weather from March to May; the rains from June to August. The town has the most pleasant temperature from September to mid-December. One of the most interesting spots is downtown Sapa. It is the place where you will see ethnic people adorn in colorful hill tribe costumes walking the streets.

The Hmong and the Dao are the largest ethnic groups of this region. Normally, tourists will see troops of hill tribe villagers during the Saturday market where they will come to sell their handicrafts. Most of the attractions outside the city relate to nature such as trekking and making an excursion. Every trekker’s destination seems to be the 3,143-meter Fansipan peak that is only 9km from Sapa but can only be accessible by foot. The trip to this pristine natural site takes at least three days. The best time to visit is from mid-October to mid-December and in March. North of the city, just only 8km away from the city, is the Silver Waterfall or Thac Bac. It is one of the highest waterfalls in the country standing at 100 meters tall. A little bit further on the same road of Sapa-Lai Chau is Tram Ton Pass at the height of 1,900 meter, the highest mountain pass of the
country. It is the natural dividing line of the dramatic contrast of the coldest weather in Sapa and the warmest in Lai Chau.

Trekking fee is US7pp
Hill Tribe Guest House is US7 a room for 2

Beautiful mountain view from our stay at Hill Tribe Guest House Sapa.

Ching Neng Bin has booked her as his future daughter-in-law

Sapa market for breakfast.

The Hmong and the Dao are the largest ethnic groups of this Sapa region. Normally, tourists will see troops of hill tribe villagers during the Saturday market where they will come to sell their handicrafts. Most of the attractions outside the city relate to nature such as trekking and making an excursion.

After breakfast, we went for a 5 hour guided trek through the valley visiting the Hmong villages along the way. We started by walking from Sapa town towards the Muong Hao valley – one of the most beautiful valley in Vietnam where we can admire a magnificent scenery. About 1km from the road, we turn right to get the trail leading into the valley.

American guest-house on the trail leading into the beautiful Muong Hao valley to Lao Chai village.

We trekked downhill through lush rice terrace Muong Hao valley towards Lao Chai village.

L-R: Chan Meng Fye, Chew Leng Soon, Bernard Lee, Mohanadas, Ching Neng Bin, Balan at Sapa valley.

Indigo plant for dyeing cloth at Sapa valley.

We trekked downhill through lush rice terrace Sapa valleys towards Lao Chai village.

Mohanadas and Bernard Lee with the children at Sapa valley.

We trekked downhill through lush rice terrace Sapa valleys towards Lao Chai village.

Chew Leng Soon and Bernard Lee with the tribal girls at rice terrace Sapa valleys.

We trekked downhill through lush rice terrace Sapa valleys towards Lao Chai village.

Village by the bamboo forest in the beautiful Sapa valleys to Lao Chai.

A tribal grave in the beautiful Sapa valleys to Lao Chai village.

Lunch was provided by stopping at one of the rest-house run by the Dao tribe. The guide prepared delicious lunch while we had beer. We experienced the daily life of the tribes and talked to friendly people.

Chew Leng Soon with his girlfriend at the Lao Chai village rest-house run by the Dao tribe.

After lunch at Lao Chai village, we trekked through Ta Van village and noticed that there were home-stay for those who wish to stay with the tribal families.

In total we trekked for about 14km up and down the hills crossing a beautiful river before ending the trek on the main road. A van came to pick us up heading for our guest-house while Bernard Lee would walk back preparing for his Nepal trip.

Day 12	Sapa			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
22.10.06	Water for trekking	VND	30,000	7.50
Sapa	Fruits from market	VND	70,000	17.50
	Breakfast	VND	120,000	30.00
	Dinner	VND	178,000	44.50

Day 13 (23.10.2006) Sapa to Hanoi

After breakfast at Mountain View coffee house, we trekked up the Dragon Jaws Mountain beside the church in town – entrance is Dong20,000 (RM5). We also attended a cultural dance where we also participated in the bamboo dance. We then took a 6pm van down to Lao Cai to catch the train at 8.30pm for Hanoi.

Overnight train to Ha Noi
Train – Lao Cai to Ha Noi is D216,000pp

Dragon Jaws mountain in Sapa

Ching Neng Bin photographed with a beautiful Dragon Jaws Mountain cultural show girl.

Ching Neng Bin photographed with another beautiful Dragon Jaws Mountain cultural show girl.

Chew Leng Soon photographed with a beautiful Dragon Jaws Mountain cultural show girl.

We attended Dragon Jaws Mountain cultural dance show where we participated in the dance.

Chew Leng Soon and Ching Neng Bin photographed with beautiful Dragon Jaws Mountain cultural show girls.

Overnight train from Lao Cai to Ha Noi is D216,000pp

Day 13	Sapa			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
23.10.06	High tea at Sapa Market	VND	75,000	18.75
	Breakfast	VND	156,000	39.00
	Van charges fm Sapa to Lao Cai - 25000 x 6	VND	150,000		37.50
	Train ticket fm Lao Cai to Hanoi - US13.50x6	VND	1,296,000		324.00
	Hotel Hill Tribe - US7 x 3 rooms	VND	272,000			68.00
	Cultural show at Dragon Jaw - 10000 x 6	VND	60,000				15.00
	Visit Dragon Jaw Mountain - 20000 x 6	VND	120,000				30.00

Day 14 (24.10.2006) Hanoi Vietnam

Arriving at 6am in Hanoi, we took a taxi to Bao Long Hotel at Hang Be Road. Afternoon we went for the Thang Long Water Puppet show – fee is D20,000. We then walked around the Hanoi old quarter. Cheapest beer in the world is the draft Hoi Beer at RM0.50 or D2,000 a glass. Hanoi the capital of Vietnam is a city of lakes and tree-lined boulevards. Although the transition to a market economy was perhaps most resisted in Hanoi, it's now well under way, and the city is as vibrant then the southern counterpart. Hanoi was founded around 1010 AD, shortly after the Vietnamese had attained independence from nearly 1,000 years of Chinese domination.

The city was founded by Emperor Ly Thai Tho, who built a citadel and a surrounding walled city just northwest of the current Old Quarter. Hanoi served as Vietnam's capital until the Emperor Gia Long decided to move the capital to Hue in the nineteenth century. In 1902, the French made Hanoi the capital of French Indochina and the Viet Minh declared the city the capital of independent Vietnam in 1945. While much damage had been done to the city during the American War, much of it has been repaired. The city still retains a number of sites dating back nearly to its founding, as well as architectural treasures from the French occupation.

Puppet show – D20000pp
Bao Long Hotel at Hang Be road is US2 pp
Recommended - Prince 57 Hotel is US7 per room for 3

Arriving at 6am in Hanoi, we took a taxi to Bao Long Hotel at Hang Be Road.

Bao Long Hotel at Hang Be street is US2 pp

Walking around in Hanoi.

Hoan Kiem Lake - Although just one of many parks and lakes is the most important. The lake lies just south of the old ancient part of town and is the center of legend. According to legend, in the fifteenth century a fisherman found a magical sword in his net one day, and he presented it to Emperor Ky Thai To (also known as Le Loi). The Emperor used the sword to defeat the invading Mongols. One day after the battle, the Emperor was enjoying an afternoon boat ride on Hoan Kiem Lake when a giant golden tortoise appeared, took the sword and disappeared into the depths of the lake.

A small pagoda sits on an islet in the center of the lake, and is dedicated to the tortoise. The lake is surrounded by a narrow strip of park-land with paths leading all around. There's a small cafe at the southwest corner of the lake which is almost always crowded when the weather is nice. Near the northeast corner of the lake a red wooden bridge connects to a small island with the Ngoc Son temple on it. The park around the lake is popular all day long. In the morning, you'll see people exercising, while in the afternoon people walk, sit and enjoy the sunset, or meeting special friends to watch the sunset.

Ngoc Son Temple in Hanoi.

Vietcong commander in Hanoi.

Walking around and exploring in Hanoi.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. A lot of guides list the water puppet show as a "must see" in Hanoi. I found that the show really is something that shouldn't be missed. Water puppetry is an art form which originated in Vietnam at least 1,000 years ago. The puppets are essentially marionettes, except that in place of strings or wires, the puppets are mounted on long poles, which remain totally hidden under a shallow pool of water.

The workings of the puppets can be quite elaborate, and part of the fascination of the show is figuring out how each puppet works. The performance is a series of unconnected skits. Some simply depict scenes of everyday village life, such as planting rice or catching fish. Others act out famous legends or myths.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. Each act uses specially made puppets, each of which is different than the ones used by the other skits. The puppets are carved of wood and painted or lacquered with bright colors. The water and lighting provides some spectacular effects with only these very simple elements. Shows last about an hour and consist of about 16 stories. The entire performance is accompanied by a live orchestra sitting to the left of the stage. The traditional instruments include drums, flutes, xylophone and the harp-like dan bau. The band is accompanied by a singer as well.

The theater is located near the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake just a short walk from the Ngoc Son Temple. There are several performances every day, beginning at 16:15, with the last performance at 21:15. You must book your seats in advance, as the performances tend to sell out every day. You're advised to drop by the theater in the afternoon on the day you want to attend. There are two classes of tickets. First class tickets cost 40,000 Dong (2.40 USD) while second class is 20,000 Dong (1.20 USD). It doesn't appear that there is any difference between the first class and second class tickets, other than where you sit.

Day 14	Sapa to Hanoi			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
24.10.06	Coffee at Hanoi Railway station	VND	24,000	6.00
	Water bottle	VND	24,000	6.00
	Dinner	VND	225,000	56.25
	Lunch	VND	246,000	61.50
	Breakfast	VND	260,000	65.00
	2 taxi fm Hanoi station to Bao Long G/H	VND	130,000		32.50
	Room at Hotel Bao Long - 32000 x 6	VND	192,000			48.00
	Puppet show - 20000 x 6	VND	120,000				30.00

Day 15 (25.10.2006) Hanoi > Ha Long Bay > Cat Ba Island

A US25 package trip starts with a 3 hour van drive at 8am to Ha Long Bay. On board the junk boat we had lunch served at 2pm. Another 3 hour sailing before we reached Cat Ba Island. Along the way, we visited Sung Sot Cave and later stopped for swimming. Accommodation and dinner was at Cat Ba Plaza. We later explore the town centre.

On board the junk boat we had lunch served at 2pm. Another 3 hour sailing before we reached Cat Ba Island.

Along the way, we visited Sung Sot Cave and later stopped for swimming.

Sung Sot Cave is situated in the centre of the UNESCO-declared World Heritage area, the Sung Sot or Surprise Grotto is on Bo Hon Island, and is one of the finest and widest grottoes of Halong Bay. Ascending to the grotto, the way is covered by trees and foliage, and consists of great paved stone blocks.

Sung Sot Cave. Inside, it is partitioned into two chambers; the first one being similar to a wide theater hall. Many stalactites hang from the high ceiling, with numerous possible forms and shapes.

Sung Sot Cave. A narrow passage leads to the second rooms, where a flow of light meets visitors.

Sung Sot Cave. The chamber is so immense it could contain thousands of people at one time. At the deepest point of the grotto, a "royal garden" appears with a clear pond and a seemingly fascinating landscape of mountains. Many birds and plants live here.

Halong Bay is a World Natural Heritage, includes some 1,600 islands and islets in the Tonkin Gulf. Viewed from above, Halong Bay looks like an extremely vivid huge drawing. This is a wonderful and skillful masterpiece of the creation and of nature that turns thousands of dumb soulless stone islands into fantastic sculptural and artistic works of various graceful shapes, both familiar and strange to human beings. Thousands of islands emerging uneven in the fanciful waves look strong and magnificent but also mild and vivid... Wherever you come from, whosoever you are and however old you are, you will certainly experience the same emotion and feeling when admiring this wonder of stone and water. And great experiences will always remain even when you leave the place.

On board the junk boat for another 3 hour sailing before we reached Cat Ba Island.

Swing time before we reached Cat Ba Island.

Cat Ba Island is the largest island in Halong Bay. The island has a few fishing villages and a small town. On the east side of the island you will find Lan Ha Bay which has numerous beaches and excellent scenery. There are two white sand beaches (Cat Co 1 and Cat Co 2) located 1km from Cat Ba town. The two beaches are connected by a wooden walkway about 700m long. Cat Ba National Park occupies a large area of the island and is well worth a visit especially if you enjoy hiking. The best time to visit Cat Ba is during October and November. Temperatures are a little cool from December to February, and you can expect rain during March and April. June through August is hot and humid.

Day 15	Hanoi to Cat Bar Island			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
25.10.06	Breakfast	VND	110,000	27.50
	Halong Bay Tour - 400000 x 6 or US25 x 6	VND	2,400,000				600.00

Day 16 (26.10.2006) Cat Ba Island to Hanoi

8.30am boat back from Cat Ba Island to Ha Long Bay for lunch and then traveled by van back to Hanoi. Evening was spent exploring Hanoi city and the lake area. It was another shopping day and drinking beer-Hoi.

Prince 57 Hotel, Hanoi is US7 for 3 people

Morning sea view from Catba Plaza Hotel on Cat Ba Island.

Catba Plaza Hotel is one of the most modern, luxurious and convenient hotel in Catba Town. The hotel, located in the campus of nearly 1.000m2 with the distintive architechture, is bounded by romantic mountains and face to Lan Ha Bay.

Boarding the junk boat from Catba Plaza Hotel.

A lady selling food from her boat.

The best part of the day in Hanoi is the night dringking Bia-Hoi. Cheapest beer in the world is the draft Hoi Beer at RM0.50 or D2,000 a glass.

Bia hơi, is a type of draught beer popular in Vietnam. Bia hơi is available primarily in northern Vietnam. It is mostly to be found in small bars and on street corners. The beer is brewed daily, then matured for a short period and once ready each bar gets a fresh batch delivered every day in steel barrels.

Day 16	Cat Bar to Hanoi			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
26.10.06	Cakes & bread for bus trip	VND	35,000	8.75
	Noodles for dinner	VND	100,000	25.00
	Room at Prince 57 Hotel - US7 x 2	VND	224,000			56.00

Day 17 (27.10.2006) Hanoi to Vientiane, Laos

Morning was last shopping at the old quarter. After lunch we visited the Public Bank HQ in Hanoi and chat with the branch manager Mr Tay from Malaysia. We were recommended to buy Vietnam famous coffee powder beside the Bank. We left Hanoi by bus at 9.30pm for Vientiane, Laos.

Hanoi to Vientiane by bus is D154,000 (RM39)

Overnight bus to Vientiane

After lunch we visited the Public Bank HQ in Hanoi and chat with the branch manager Mr Tay from Malaysia. We were recommended to buy Vietnam famous coffee powder beside the Bank.

Buying silk sleeping-bag in Hanoi.

Street barber in Hanoi.

Ching Neng Bin and Chan Meng Fye asking for location in Hanoi.

Walking around Hoan Kiem Lake.

Last Bia-Hoi drinking session before we left Hanoi by bus at 9.30pm for Vientiane, Laos.

Ching Neng Bin helping himself for another glass of Bia-Hoi before we left Hanoi by bus at 9.30pm for Vientiane, Laos.

Day 17	Hanoi			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
27.10.06	Water	VND	24,000	6.00
	Lunch - Pho	VND	60,000	15.00
	Breakfast - noodles	VND	114,000	28.50
	Bus - Hanoi to Vientiane - US14 x 6	VND	1,312,000		328.00

Day 18 (28.10.2006) Vientiane, Laos

We arrived at Vietnam border town of Cau Treo at 7.30am for immigration clearance. We left the Namphao Laos immigration at 9.30am for a 380km journey to Vientiane. In Vientiane we took a tutu to town and stayed at Riverside Hotel for B500 twin sharing room. Evening was exploring the Mekong River-side for dinner. This is the longest road journey of 20 hours from Hanoi to Vientiane arriving at 5.30pm the following day.

Vientiane - In spite of its role as the capital of Laos, Vientiane is unbelievably quiet, and a great place to hang out and relax, taking in the laid back atmosphere created by the country’s exceedingly friendly people.

War History - Across the Mekong River from Nong Khai in Thailand, Vientiane is the capital of the Lao People’s Democratic Republic (Laos). The warlord Fa Ngum founded the Lan Xang kingdom with Khmer backing in 1353. Its capital in modern-day Luang Prabang was shifted to Wieng Chan (Vientiane) around 1545. Over the centuries, Khmers, Vietnamese, Siamese, Burmese, French and Americans all fought wars on its soil before the communist Pathet Lao takeover in 1975.

Today, Vientiane is a peaceful city of multi-cultural influences, most evident in its architecture: Lao temples, French colonial mansions, Sino-Vietnamese shop houses and Soviet-style administrative offices. Southeast Asia’s recent development has been slower here, so there are few tall buildings and little traffic, but hotels and foreign restaurants are multiplying as the communist government opens up to visitors.

Riverside Hotel, Vientiane – B500 per room

We arrived at Vietnam border town of Cau Treo at 7.30am for immigration clearance. We left the Namphao Laos immigration at 9.30am for a 380km journey to Vientiane. This is the longest road journey of 20 hours from Hanoi to Vientiane arriving at 5.30pm the following day.

We arrived at Vietnam border town of Cau Treo at 7.30am for immigration clearance. We left the Namphao Laos immigration at 9.30am for a 380km journey to Vientiane.

Our bus ride from Hanoi. This is the longest road journey of 20 hours from Hanoi to Vientiane arriving at 5.30pm the following day.

Vietnamese students studying in Laos unloading personal effects in Vientiane.

Evening was exploring the Mekong River-side for dinner.

Day 18	Hanoi to Vientiane			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
28.10.06	Hi tea	TB	380	38.00
	Seafood dinner at Vientiane - 361,000kip	TB	1,400	140.00
	Overtime for Laotian Immigration on 28/10	KIP	32,000		11.85
	Tuk2 - bus station to Riverside GH - 15000k x6	TB	346		34.60
	Hotel Riverside - 250 x 3 rooms	TB	750			75.00

Day 19 (29.10.2006) Vientiane Laos

We changed to Phonepaseuth Guesthouse. After lunch we walked to the Morning Market and bought some T-shirts. We then walked to the bus station to check out on bus to Vang Vieng. Evening we went to That Luang Temple where there was a celebration with fun-fare. Chew Leng Soon and Ching Neng Bin went for a very good foot massage at LV City Massage, Spa and Beauty just opposite our Phonepaseuth GH – strongly recommended.

Phonepaseuth Guesthouse, Vientiane - B400 per room

Mekong River-side for dinner.

That Dam is a 16th-century Buddhist stupa in central Vientiane. Also known as the Black Stupa, it’s located on a quiet roundabout not far from Talat Sao (morning market) and the American Embassy.

Locals believe that a 7-headed water serpent – Naga – lived here to protect the stupa, which was once covered in pure gold. During the Siamese-Laotian war in the late-1820s, the gold was pillaged and taken to Siam, now Thailand, leaving the legacy that is the black stupa today.

You can shop for hill tribe handicrafts and Lao textiles at the Talat Sao (morning market) Vientiane.

Patuxai is a war monument in the centre of Vientiane, Laos, built between 1957 and 1968.

Patuxai is a war monument in the centre of Vientiane, Laos, built between 1957 and 1968. The Patuxai was dedicated to those who fought in the struggle for independence from France. In romanising the name from the Laotian language, it is variously transliterated as Patuxai, Patuxay, Patousai and Patusai.

Day 19	Vientiane			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
29.10.06	Dinner - noodles	TB	342	34.20
	Breakfast	TB	400	40.00
	Lunch at Balan's f-i-law restaurant	TB	900	90.00
	Tuk2 to restaurant for lunch	TB	115		11.50
	Hotel Riverside - 250 x 3 rooms	TB	750			75.00

Day 20 (30.10.2006) Vientiane to Vang Vieng

8am bus to Vang Vieng, 156km away arriving at 1pm. Check-in at Phoubane Guest House.

We went swimming in the beautiful river and exploring the town for food.

The small town of Vang Vieng nestled beside the Nam Song River amid beautiful limestone karsts terrain and the main attraction is the TV bars.

Vientiane to Vang Vieng by local bus is K25,000pp

Phoubane GH, Vang Vieng – US3 per room

Vientiane 8am bus to Vang Vieng 156km away arriving at 1pm. Check-in at Phoubane Guest House.

The Nam Song river view amid beautiful limestone karsts terrain from Phoubane Guest House.

The Nam Song river view at Vang Vieng from Phoubane Guest House.

The Nam Song river view amid beautiful limestone karsts terrain at Vang Vieng.

Day 20	Vientiane to Vang Vieng			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
30.10.06	Coffee & cakes	KIP	40,000	14.81
	Breakfast	KIP	60,000	22.22
	Dinner - fried rice	KIP	120,000	44.44
	Lunch at Erawan restaurant	KIP	160,000	59.26
	Bus fm Vientiane to Vang Vieng - 25000 x 6	KIP	150,000		55.56
	Room at Hotel Phone Paseuth Vientiane	KIP	310,000			114.81

Day 21 (31.10.2006) Vang Vieng

Sunrise view at a temple in Vang Vieng. Chan Meng Fye and Ching Neng Bin went to this temple visited by Ching in 2003.

Early morning Ching Neng Bin went to this temple visited by Ching in 2003 in Vang Vieng.

Ching brought along the photos of monks and devotees taken in 2003 in Vang Vieng. They were very pleased and surprised to see the photos. We joined in for the prayers after which we distributed old clothing to the old folks.

Photos of monks and devotees taken in 2003 in Vang Vieng.

Chan Meng Fye and Ching Neng Bin went to a temple visited by Ching in 2003. We joined in for the prayers after which we distributed old clothing to the old folks.

The small town of Vang Vieng nestled beside the The Nam Song river view amid beautiful limestone karsts terrain and the main attraction is the TV bars.

At 10am we all went for river-tubing down the 10km Nam Song River in an inflated tractor tyre ending near our guest house for US3.50 per person. Several ‘bars’ were set up on islands and beaches along the river where we stopped for beer and the Tarzan swing.

The concept of tubing is simple. You rent a rubber tube from one of the offices in town for US3.50pp. They take you in a tuk-tuk and head 10km to the start of the tubing route on Nam Song River. You then jump in your tube and start floating. Stop at the bars, get involved in the games and leave with a whole new set of friends.

Ching Neng Bin doing the tarzan swing along the tubing route on Nam Song River.

Doing the tarzan swing along the tubing route on Nam Song River.

The afternoon was walking along the river side and visiting the people Ching Neng Bin met 3 years ago. Ching found them staying on the other side of the river and gave them the old photo taken then. Ching also met another young girl in the village and we distributed ball-pen to school children along the road.

Photo taken in 2003 in Vang Vieng.

Happy dinner with Beer Lao in Vang Vieng

Phoubane GH, Vang Vieng – US3 per room

Day 21	Vang Vieng			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
31.10.06	Water	KIP	6,000	2.22
	Pancake	KIP	10,000	3.70
	Breakfast	KIP	126,000	46.67
	Dinner	KIP	180,000	66.67
	Lunch at Erawan restaurant	KIP	220,000	81.48
	Phoubane GH - US3 x 3 rooms x 3 nights	KIP	270,000			100.00
	Tubing - Dry Bag hire	KIP	10,000				3.70
	Tubing on Nam Song river - 35000 x 6	KIP	210,000				77.78

Day 22 (01.11.2006) Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang

By 11am bus to Luang Prabang. The bus stops at Kew Kajang for food at 4pm. It was here that Ching Neng Bin met another family 3 years ago in 2003. Ching gave them the photos taken and some pen to the children. 6.30pm arrived at Luang Prabang.

Luang Prabang the royal capital of Laos until the 1975 revolution, this World Heritage site remains a charming curiosity of ancient temples and French colonial architecture. Second City - When Fa Ngum founded the Lan Xang kingdom in 1353, he named his capital Muang Sawa. Later, when he received a Sri Lankan Buddha image (Phra Bang) from the Khmers, he renamed the capital Luang Phrabang.

Vientiane became the new capital in 1545. Now, as Laos’ second biggest city, Luang Phrabang remains a sleepy town still awaiting modernity. The ethnic mix is Laos, Mien, Hmong and various other Thai tribes. The architecture is assorted, with northern Laos’s temples and French colonial buildings standing among humbler private dwellings: mountains surround the area, giving an isolated feel.

Palace Museum - For the city’s history, try the French colonial-era Royal Palace Museum by the Mekong River. Built in 1904, it was a residence of King Sisavong Vang. He died in 1959, leaving it to Crown Prince Sisavang Vatthana. Following his exile during the 1975 revolution, the palace became a museum. It contains a 38-cm solid gold Buddha image from the 1st century, carved elephant tusks and other unusual Buddha statues.

Temple Finery - Interesting temples: The classic Wat Xieng Thong (1560) is the city’s finest temple. It features some unique Buddha effigies and a beautiful tree of life mosaic. Stunning gold relief adorns the doors of Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham (1797). Wat Wisunalat (1513) is Luang Phrabang’s oldest, continually used temple. Burned by Chinese Ho bandits in 1887, it was rebuilt in 1898.The main stupa of Wat That Luang (1818) holds the ashes of King Sisavang Vong. Local lore dates the site to the 3rd century BC.

River Attractions - Outside Luang Phrabang: Pak Ou Caves on the Mekong River are a 25-km boat ride away and contain hundreds of Buddha statues. 29 km south of the city are Kuang Si Falls, where water cascades from several tiers into the green pools below. This is a public recreation area.

Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang by bus @ US9.50pp

Merry Guesthouse is US4 a room

Farewell to staff of Phoubane Guesthouse, Vang Vieng

This is Vang Vieng bus station on an old air-field.

Public transport in Vang Vieng.

The bus stops at Kew Kajang for food at 4pm. It was here that Ching Neng Bin met another family 3 years ago in 2003. Ching gave them the photos taken and some pen to the children.

Photo taken in 2003 at Kew Kajang Laos.

Luang Prabang bus station.

Day 22	Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
01.11.06	Water	KIP	12,000	4.44
	Lunch at Kiokajam	KIP	54,000	20.00
	Breakfast	KIP	174,000	64.44
	Dinner by the Mekong River	KIP	200,000	74.07
	Tuk2 to Merry GH - US4	KIP	40,000		14.81
	Bus VangVieng to Luang Prabang - US9.50 x 6	KIP	570,000		211.11
	Merry G.H - Balan & Mohan for a night	KIP	40,000			14.81
	Merry G.H - US4 x 2 rooms	KIP	80,000			29.63

Day 23 (02.11.2006) Luang Prabang

Early morning at 5.30am Ching Neng Bin walked out to the main road to witness hundreds of Buddhist monks begging for food. Ching then walked nearly 200 steps up the hill for the famous temple - Wat Thammo Thayaram Pra Thatachomsi.

Chew Leng Soon went to donate blood at the Red Cross centre where he also donated the previous year. Chew then visited his Hash House friends at Hotel Rama while we visited Kwang Xi and Sai waterfalls by paying the tutu US5 each. Afternoon was exploring the town and had dinner at a Chinese restaurant together with the 4 nurses from the Red Cross Centre.

Evening was walking to the night market at Sisavong Vang road down to Setthathilat Road. In front of the hill tribe market (usually closed at night) are several food stalls selling local delicacies. Further on towards the museum are many vendors of souvenir items, mostly textiles with a few other items thrown in.

Merry Guesthouse is US4 a room

Mohan & Balan changed to Cold River GH for US5 a room Sai Waterfall

Early morning at 5.30am Ching Neng Bin walked out to the main road to witness hundreds of Buddhist monks begging for food.

Ching then walked up the hill for the famous temple - Wat Thammo Thayaram Pra Thatachomsi.

Ching then walked nearly 200 steps up the hill for the famous temple - Wat Thammo Thayaram Pra Thatachomsi.

Kwang Xi waterfall is about 24 miles south of Luang Prabang is considered the most picturesque in the area. Water cascades down 200 feet through a series of pools and cascades. Trips to Kwang Si falls are usually a full day affair combined with visits to one or more ethnic villages and lunch at the falls. Entrance fee is 15,000 kips.

Sai Waterfall is the closer of two spectacular waterfalls that make good day trips from Luang Prabang. The water cascades down through several pools before flowing into the Khan River. The water is best from about September to January. During the rainy season from May to August, the water will be thick and muddy. Entrance fee is 8,000 kips.

We enjoyed swimming at the Sai Waterfall in Luang Prabang.

Khan River in Luang Prabang.

Staff of Merry Guesthouse in Luang Prabang - US4 a room

Night market at Luang Prabang

Chan Meng Fye and girl friend enjoying dinner in Luang Prabang.

Day 23	Luang Prabang			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
02.11.06	Hi Tea at Cold River GH	KIP	28,000	10.37
	Lunch at Kuangsi waterfall - chicken & coconut	KIP	60,000	22.22
	Breakfast at Cold River GH	KIP	179,000	66.30
	Dinner for Lao friends at Simoa Chinese Shop	KIP	415,000	153.70
	Cold River G.H - Balan & Mohan for a night	KIP	60,000			22.22
	Merry G.H - US4 x 2 rooms	KIP	80,000			29.63
	Toll at Tat Sae waterfall	KIP	3,000				1.11
	Meat for tiger Phet	KIP	10,000				3.70
	Tips for driver	KIP	10,000				3.70
	Boat to Tat Sae Waterfall - 7000 x 6	KIP	42,000				15.56
	Entrance at Tat Sae waterfall - 8000 x 6	KIP	48,000				17.78
	Kwangsi Waterfall fee - 15000 x 6	KIP	90,000				33.33
	Tuk2 to Kuangsi & Tat Sae - 50000 x 6	KIP	300,000				111.11

Day 24 (03.11.2006) Luang Prabang > Chiang Kong > Chiang Mai

By 10am tutu to the boat jetty. Actual speed boat fee to Huay Xai is only 280,000 kips (RM107) but we paid US32pp through agent. 1st boat change at Pak Beng and 2nd boat change at another stop. The journey took 7 hours before arriving at Huay Xai at 5pm. We had dinner at JJ guesthouse in Chiang Kong while waiting for van to Chiang Mai. Departed at 7.30pm and arriving Chiang Mai at 11.30pm. Supper near Kalare Market.

Luang Prabang to Huay Xai by speed boat is Kip280,000 (RM107) must pay in Kip.

Chiang Kong to Chiang Mai by van TB220pp

Nam Khong GH in Chiang Mai is TB250 a room - Strongly recommended.

Saying farewell to family members of Cold River Guesthouse, Luang Prabang, Laos

Family members of Cold River Guesthouse, Luang Prabang, Laos

The speedboat option is for adrenaline junkies. If you’re in a rush, the speedboat will get you to your destination in just six hours on the Mekong River to Chiang Kong.

Luang Prabang to Chiang Kong by speedboat at 40 knots on the Mekong River. The speedboat was very small and the boat was packed full with local people and their luggage. There were no seat or anything to sit on. We had to sit on the ground (space: 70x70cm). We made sure that our backpack was securely fasten and started the trip. So far everything went well but after a while the seating position became very uncomfortable because of the small space. After a short stop in Pak Beng for lunch (after 4h) we went further on for another 3h before we finally reached Chiang Kong .

Changed boat and had lunch at Pak Beng. Luang Prabang to Chiang Kong by speed boat at 40 knots on the Mekong River.

Changed boat and had lunch at Pak Beng on the Mekong River.

Luang Prabang to Chiang Kong by speed boat at 40 knots on the Mekong River.

Dinner at Kalare Night Bazaar Chiang Mai

Day 24	Luang Prabang to Chiang Mai			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
03.11.06	Breakfast	KIP	15,000	5.56
	Lunch - Pak Beng transit station (fried rice)	KIP	60,000	22.22
	Hi Tea before crossing over to ChiangKhong	KIP	60,000	22.22
	Dinner at Chiang Khong - Namkhong Shop	TB	420	42.00
	Supper in Chiang Mai	TB	1,050	105.00
	Overtime for Thai Immigration	TB	60		6.00
	Overtime for Lao Immigration	KIP	30,000		11.11
	Boat across Mekong 20 x 6	TB	120		12.00
	Tuk2 to Lao Immigration	KIP	45,000		16.67
	Van fm C.Khong to Chiang Mai - 220 x 6	TB	1,320		132.00
	Speed boat - L.Prabang to Huay Xai - US32 x 6	KIP	1,920,000		711.11
	Namkhong G.H. - 250B x 3	TB	750			75.00

Day 25 (04.11.2006) Chiang Mai to Sukhothai

After breakfast, we decided to break into 2 teams. Chew Leng Soon, Mohanadas & Balan would stay back in Chiang Mai while Chan Meng Fye, Bernard Lee and Ching Neng Bin would travel to Sukhothai to witness the Loy Krathong festival there. We left Chiang Mai for Sukhothai at 2.30pm - a 5 hour journey. As all the guest-houses were full, we stayed at Chinawat Hotel, Sukhothai at B250 a room for 3 people. We walked to the market for dinner.

Chiang Mai to Sukhothai by bus is TB234pp

Chinawat Hotel - B250 a room for 3pax

Chan Meng Fye, Bernard Lee and Ching Neng Bin in Sukhothai to witness the Loy Krathong festival.

Balan sending love messages to wife in Chiang Mai.

Day 25	Chiang Mai to Sukhothai			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
04.11.06	Breakfast at Silom Joy	TB	410	41.00
	Meals	TB	1,200	120.00
	Bus fm Chiang Mai to Sukhothai - 234 x 6	TB	1,404		140.40
	Chinawat Hotel - 250 for 3 person a room	TB	500			50.00

Day 26 (05.11.2006) Sukhothai

After breakfast, we took tuk2 to Sukhothai Historical Park where the Loy Krathong festival was held. We each rented a bicycle (B20 each) and cycled round the complex. We then bought tickets for the Light and Sound Presentation at 9pm – fee is B400. There was a grand fire-work display at 12 midnight. Miss Universe Natalie was present at the grand stand. Chinawat Hotel - B250 a room for 3 pax

Photos from Chew Leng Soon, Mohanadas, Balan who visited the Royal Project Garden in Chiang Mai.

Photos from Chew Leng Soon, Mohanadas and Balan visited the Royal Project Garden in Chiang Mai.

Entrance to the Royal Project Garden in Chiang Mai.

The Royal Project Garden in Chiang Mai.

Day 26	Sukhothai			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
05.11.06	Meals	TB	1,200	120.00
	Chinawat Hotel - 250 for 3 person a room	TB	500			50.00
	Light & sound presentation - 400 x 6	TB	2,400				240.00

Day 27 (06.11.2006) Sukhothai to Bangkok

Chan Meng Fye and Bernard Lee took the bus back to Chiang Mai to meet the other team members. However, Ching Neng Bin decided to go back to Malaysia by train, so Ching took a bus to Phitsanulok to catch the train to Bangkok. The train departs at 11.18am and arrived in Bangkok at 8pm.

Phitsanulok to Bangkok by train is TB179

Station Hotel beside the railway station is B250 a room

Recommended is The Train Inn at B450 a room.

Day 27	Sukhothai to Bangkok			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
06.11.06	Meals	TB	1,200	120.00
	Train – Phitsanulok to Bangkok is B179	TB	1,074		107.40
	Station Hotel Bangkok B250 a room	TB	1,500			150.00

Day 28 (07.11.2006) Bangkok to Hadyai

Ching spend the morning walking around Bangkok China Town and had very good chicken rice there. He had been eating there in his previous 3 trips. The train to Hadyai is at 5 pm.

Train – Bangkok to Hadyai is B345

Overnight train to Hadyai

Day 28	Bangkok to Hadyai			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
07.11.06	Meals	TB	1,200	120.00
	Train – Bangkok to Hadyai is B400 pp	TB	2,400		240.00
	Cathay guest house - B200 PP	TB	1,200			120.00

Day 29 (08.11.2006) Hadyai

Ching reached Hadyai at 12 noon.

Cathay Guest House is B200 a room

Day 29	Hadyai			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
08.11.06	Meals	TB	1,200	120.00
	Cathay guest house - B200 PP	TB	1,200			120.00

Day 30 (09.11.2006) Hadyai > Ipoh

It was 6am train to Butterworth and 10.30am bus to Ipoh. The rest of the team flew in to KL from Chian Mai on this day.

Day 30	Hadyai to Ipoh			Food	Transport	Room	Visits
09.11.06	Meals	TB	1,200	120.00
	Van to Butterworth - B220 x 6	TB	1,320		132.00
	Bus fm Butterworth to Ipoh RM14 x 6	RMB	84		84.00
	Total expenses			3,754.22	5,045.76	1,792.21	3,759.78	=	14,351.97
									divide by 6
	From 6th to 9th was based on Ching's	USD	RM	RMB	TB	KIP	VND		2,391.99
	personal expenses x 6 for averaging purposes.	1	3.7	7.4	370	10000	16000		per person
			1	2	10	2700	4000

Total expenses of RM14,351.97 / 6pax = 2,391.99 per person

3,754.22 Food
5,045.76 Transport
1,792.21 Rooms
3,759.28 Entrance fee
14,351.97

Home Sweet Home

See You in Vietnam – 2007

Bernard Lee 016-2543318

Balan 016-2011373 email: ctbalan@sdc.com.my

Chan Meng Fye 016-2815989 email: fye2fly@yahoo.com

Chew Leng Soon 012-2177366 email: portoon@yahoo.com

Ching Neng Bin 012-5053199 email: ching2662@yahoo.co.uk

Mohanadas 012-2776031 email: mohanandas.mohan@shell.com

Backpacking & Outdoor adventures by ChingNengBin - Namaste! Everest BaseCamp 5,364m

2006 Backpacking to Thailand, Laos, China, Vietnam (30 days) 11 Oct to 09 Nov 2006

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